A couple of problems! I must be missing something.

[kevinnator11]

1.  I am not able to get Urac due to shipping issues and haven't found a source here in Alaska.  I have used TB3 only in the past and wanted to try some alternatives.  I bought some Weldwood Plastic resin that you just mix with water and have had it fail on me three times already.  I followed the directions very closely and still no luck.

I've seen some posts where people have said that they had good luck with this product.  I didn't use a heat box just kept the bow in a warm place for about 3 days and the tips just pulled off and at the first bend all I heard was cracking which has to be the most hated sound I can think of and the handle popped off after a couple of pulls.  Whew!  Glad it was the handle.  I'm on a bow blow up streak. 

Is there something I'm missing?  Does this stuff need a hot box or something.  I think I'm gonna go back to TB3.  Cleaned up my joints used the tb3 and after a day it's rock solid.

Also met a guy here this weekend and he says I can hunt moose on his property so I can see some hide glue in my future.  Can't wait to try that with some sinew.

2.  I made a jig to put some reflex into this project.  70" bow and from center of handle my jig bends out to about 4" of reflex at the tips.  I went slow using a heat gun and clamped it down as I heat treated the belly (red oak board).  When I took it out of the clamps it went back completely straight.

I'm guessing I'm gonna have to steam this to get it to keep the shape.  The reflex isn't really necessary at the moment I have it at 50# with no set at 28" but the board was $6 so I thought I'd play a little by inducing some reflex and curving the tips.

As always I sure appreciate the advice.

[RBLusthaus]

I am not sure what woods you are gluing together, but I have had a very good experience with the DAP.  I had a recent URAC failure, so I got a hold of the DAP and have been very happy.   Did you mix by weight?  I think they recommend that.    Was it just the handle that popped off?  If yes, there may be other reasons for that happening.  Can you post a pic?

Russ

[Buckeye Guy]

I don't know about your glues but if you give that board a bath in olive oil first the heat will penetrate it better !

[kevinnator11]

I am not sure what woods you are gluing together, but I have had a very good experience with the DAP.  I had a recent URAC failure, so I got a hold of the DAP and have been very happy.   Did you mix by weight?  I think they recommend that.    Was it just the handle that popped off?  If yes, there may be other reasons for that happening.  Can you post a pic?

Russ

The tips popped off with just some hand pressure.  I did mix it by weight.  The handle popped off when I bent it some.  I was kind of expecting that due to the tip failure.  I just bent it a little on the floor and heard the cracking.  Couple of times and the handle came off in my hand.  I'll check the expiration if there is one for the powder.

I can't post a pic of the failure.  I just resanded the area and used tb3. 

 

I don't know about your glues but if you give that board a bath in olive oil first the heat will penetrate it better !

I will try that.  I'm not in a rush on this one just trying new tricks.

[rossfactor]

A glue on handle, on a bow that bends in the handle area, will often (maybe generally) pop off.  So the handle at least may have nothing to do with your glue up job or your glue.  If you want to build up a handle area on a bendy handle bow, try thick rawhide or leather. 

Gabe

[kevinnator11]

A glue on handle, on a bow that bends in the handle area, will often (maybe generally) pop off.  So the handle at least may have nothing to do with your glue up job or your glue.  If you want to build up a handle area on a bendy handle bow, try thick rawhide or leather. 

Gabe

I'm trying to get a stiff handle area but starting with a 3/4" board there will be some bending prior to gluing the handle.  Especially shooting for a #60 lb bow.  Usually after I glue up the handle and start roughing it out after the fade it stays stiff in the handle if the glue is strong enough.  This one popped off after only a couple of inches of bend.  I do want to try the rawhide.  I was really tempted to just go that route after the issues but I like shooting off a shelf.  Got some fletching in my finger a couple of times.  

[bubby]

I'm trying to get a stiff handle area but starting with a 3/4" board there will be some bending prior to gluing the handle.  Especially shooting for a #60 lb bow.  Usually after I glue up the handle and start roughing it out after the fade it stays stiff in the handle if the glue is strong enough.  This one popped off after only a couple of inches of bend.  I do want to try the rawhide.  I was really tempted to just go that route after the issues but I like shooting off a shelf.  Got some fletching in my finger a couple of times.
[/quote]
you should glue the handle on first, and make shure the fades start well before the glued on pc, Bub

[lesken2011]

This is just FYI since I just recently shopped for some Dap Weldwood Plastic Resin. I wanted a glue that was a gap filler to use in some cases and it was recommended by some folks on this site, so I googled the product online and found that my local hardware store had 3, 1 lb containers in stock. After being cautioned by some of the people on this site about the 1 year shelf life, I asked the store manager how old his was. He wasn't sure so he had one of his guys call the 800 number on the container and found that the lot number was from 2008. It was 4 years old. They also confirmed that the shelf life is 1 year. I'm not sure that is your problem, but you might check on it. I have never used the product, yet. They ordered me some that is supposed to be in this week.

[RobWiden]

    I've had good luck with G2 epoxy for all gluing applications on bows except sinew. One big advantage it has is it's 1 hr work time. Also doesn't need to be cooked. I leave it clamped for 24 hrs at room temperature and it sets up fine.

[mikekeswick]

Your best bet with the glue is to contact the manufacturer and explain everything to them. Glues are quite complex things and will require a certain way of preparation (materials and glue). If a glue fails on you find out why by asking those who KNOW
Did your board change colour when you heat treated it?

[mikekeswick]

Oh and if you get a fletch in your hand then the nocking point is too low. Move it up an 1/8th at a time until it stops. No need for shooting glooves

[johnston]

Red oak, in my experience, does not take heat treating very well.

[sound maker]

 1/2 primitive did a red oak bow with a real nice reflex. He boiled it for about 40-45mins if I remember correctly. it was his West coast replica flatbow  here

http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,10377.msg147936.html#msg147936
 

 If you do the dry heat bend with olive oil please post how it goes, I'm planning  on doing a bow (red oak board too) in the coming months that going to have reflex tips and want to know how this turns out.

[kevinnator11]

When I heat treated it I got the darker brown toasted look.  I bent one side at a time but as I said it was straight 24 hours later when I took it off the form.  I will try to olive oil next.  I'm gonna attempt to flip the tips with the olive oil and a heat gun. 

I will check the expiration.  I remember someone posting something about that.  I'd boil the tips but I've already glued on the tip overlays with tb3 and I'm sure that would come back out.  I think I might glue a couple of scraps though and test that theory.

I'll keep you posted on the tips.  If it does work I may try it again with bending the reflex. 

Someone said to glue the handle prior to tillering.  I've pretty much done that.  I was just bending it on the floor till I got it roughly to were I wanted it but I did to good a job and it feels like it is really close to being where it needs to be.  Haven't put it on the tree and pulled it very far yet though.  Just a little long stringing to see if I was close.  After I get all the bends I want I should be really close to my target #50.

[RBLusthaus]

While I know that the URAC expiration dates should be closely followed, I was under the impression that so long as the DAP remains dry, that it will last almost indefinitely.   I have not had mine long enough to test that theory, but I bought a large container (5 lb) under that impression. 

Russ