Starting a new elm bow and need guidance

[birdpointlightstring32]

Here is my new project. I believe this a slippery elm. this is from a three inch diameter tree. I felled the tree, split , then debarked. I then measured on the debarked area for the back 2 inches for entire length with a metal tape measure. I rough tillered the stave until I felt it was bending equally on both limbs. The stave has a large knot in the center. several smaller knots last ten inches of tip. I placed directly into hot box with a sixty watt light bulb in center of box with christmas lights strung evenly inside as well. I took it out today and it twisted a very small amount that Im not too worried about but    the (correct me) lateral warp was very bad. the stave reflexed beautifully though.It was in heat box two weeks. Its been 80 and 90 degrees here the last two weeks and the box was in my barn.I read in tbb stone age bow that if cut down thin enough and the stave was around two inches for entire length that twist and warpage would not occur. My thickness was around ¾ inches.
although I experienced ZERO checking!

I have a lot questions.

1. I think it would of been better to debark the whole stave first then split?

2. Can my handle area be worked around because of the knot?

3. What did I do wrong to make the stave have a lateral warp?

4. Is there a better method to measure the stave two inches wide with a high crown back than a metal tape measure?should I used a cloth tape measure or maybe a chalk line?

5. Directly after rough tiller, cutting down to two inches wide, how effective would it be to tie stave to two by four as a mold to prevent warpage and place in heat box like I did?

Thank you.

[birdpointlightstring32]

Should I of while splitting stop the split at each side of the handle to have a large handle area? a thicker handle.

[Adam]

Is there any way you could incorporate the knot into an arrow rest?  I'm working on a bow right now that I did that on, and I think it looks pretty neat.

[Josh B]

Well let's see,

                       1. If I'm gonna cut elm saplings or branches, I try to either cut them in the spring or early fall so that the bark peels right off.  I don't cut 'em in between those time frames because the growth ring won't be as strong.   So yep, I peel em before I split em.



                       2. You should be able to work around that knot if you are going with a stiff handle.  A bendy handle may chrystal at the knot since it runs straight in to the side.



                       3. You didn't do anything wrong.  That is just the nature of elm.  I've had twist 180 degrees on me before.



                       4. I don't usually measure at that point.  I just draw knife it down to where I think it ought to be. (I've made some nice kid bow staves that way)



                       5. It is not only effective to tie em down, but highly recommended.



                       6.  unless your trying for two staves,  just drawknife the belly off the limbs and leave the handle full.  However, be sure to seal the full round part and about six inches down each limb from the handle area or it will check on ya.  BTW if you thought splitting it was fun, wait til you get after it with the draw knife!


                    Hope this helps,    Josh

[birdpointlightstring32]

Thank you Josh. So tying down elm is standard procedure when done this way. I was worried about checking if leaving the handle area full diameter and thought it safer to split stave instead of draw knife, I will do this on next one. So just seal handle area well and no checking should occur. Stone age bow chapter in TBB said almost always no warp if done correctly so I had to ask.  .. would like to know some alternate methods of measuring a high crowned stave width wise. lol .. a board is easy enough by the curve of the crown lends itself to less accuracy for me. Would love some more advice. Thank you Josh for your time sir.