Will natural decurve perform poorly?

[Mesquite]

I have a lot of local mesquite, I mean it's like wildfire around here...hence the name. 

Some of them grow really gnarly but I've noticed a couple that look like a formed decurve bow growing naturally. Wondering if this will work at all for a bow or if it will just snap at the knot/curve area.

I don't mind working one if it "might" work but I don't want to waste time and kill a tree if it will likely certainly fail.

I'm new to bow terms but I made my first bow from the straightest mesquite I've ever seen, it's 60" with about 55" straight and 5" of slight snake where the top of the tree was. I use that as the top of the bow. From what I can gather it's a flatbow or flat selfbow, it has no riser so kinda looks like a plank with a string on it.  I don't know the draw weight but I'm not a small guy and it takes everything I got to full draw with 3 fingers.

[DRon knife]

Sounds like a neat Idea,you don't want my opinion tho...lol,they'll be a pro along soon. Welcome to PA!! Ron

[Mesquite]

Thanks, it's an awesome site.

I'd like to entertain all opinions on the matter. I have no idea what will happen, it seems like it would be weak though. Feel free to post your instinct if ya want. 

[Bevan R.]

Really only one sure way to find out. Make one and see.

[mikekeswick]

,A bow that is deflexed more than an inch or so will be like shooting a soggy noodle! If you turn the stave around - it's now refelxed! Much better to use the natural curve to your advantage. You could also try to leave it deflexed around the handle area and use a heat gun to reflex the outer limbs then you will have perhaps te sweetest shooting profile around and deflex/reflex. It will require good tillering to keep the outer limbs reflexed if you do this.
Good luck

[Mesquite]

I'm not too keen on the terminology yet, reading more about it every day though. Also don't know specific policy for offsite links...feel free to edit/delete if necessary.

Some of them grow naturally like this picture http://aoc.yg.com/Img/game/h_res/3203180.jpg

Are you saying if I started with that exact piece that I would want to string it on the other side and or bend the limbs away from the string in that picture?

I know I keep saying I'll get pics of stuff but I'm super busy as I'm sure a lot of you can relate. I'll put this on the list so you can see exactly what I can get, that will help instructing me on design.

[turtle]

Yep, put the string on the other side. That way is called reflexed. It will give you more string tension when strung. And heavier early draw weight which will give you more speed per pound of draw weight. The way you were asking about is deflexed. It gives you lower string tension when strung, less early draw weight. And slower speed per pound of pull. Hope this helps. 

[Mesquite]

Absolutely, thanks. I guess I saw starting material that looked like a strung bow and didn't realize that stringing it is what gives most of it's shape.

Something to look forward to in the field.

[Mesquite]

Similar to this size and shape, some are bigger and more bent but I think this would be a good candidate.

[Mesquite]

That one actually has a pretty good recurve to it. In the picture I linked above if you were to string it backwards as I suggested wouldn't that amplify any limb twist to a point that you can't hold the bow straight if it wasn't totally square? That backwards riser would probably ruin it.

Where as the pic I posted has a handle area "pushing away" from you for lack of a better term. If you had some limb twist you would have more handle to control it, and your hand would 'push' into the handle.

[turtle]

I understand what you are saying. Having that much reflex would be real bear to get under control. But if you made it as deflexed bow it wouldn't be very efficient. I would try to find a straighter tree.