Spliced yew/hickory backed longbow in progress

[Dag]

Hello all,

I've had these Pacific yew billets for a little while and finally decided to begin a project with them.  The billets are 36"x1.5"x1" and the hickory backing strip is 63 3/8"x1.5"x1/4".  I'm shooting for #50@28" but I realize that the yew is less than perfect so I'll take what I can get. It should make a great shooter no matter what poundage I can get out of it.

The splice cuts weren't my greatest work but the billets still fit together pretty well. Should I use TB2 or TB3 for the splice and backing? I've heard pros and cons of both so any advice from an experienced glue user would help, haha.

[DRon knife]

looking good!! I was thinking if you take a small amount off the tip of the bottom splice they would snug right up, it appears to be longer in both pics...no?

[MWirwicki]

Dag:  That's gonna make a real pretty bow.  Be careful on the 28" draw.  Going with the longest your bow will be is the length of the backing material - 63-3/8 inches.  If your going to have a stiff handle, figure on about 7-8 inches will be non-working.  If you subtract 7 from 63 you are left with 56 inches of working limb.  Divide that in half and you have a max draw length, in this case 28"  (Rule of thumb).  Your tiller would have to be next to perfect to pull it off.  Also, your string angle will be near 90 degrees (if you don't flip the tips) and you might develop more string follow than you may like. 

You might be safer at 26 or 27 inches.  While in the tillering process, allow the bow to tell you how much more it will take.  It will speak to you.  Just have to listen with your eyes.

Can't wait to see your progress!

[Dag]

Thanks for the encouragement guys!

DRon: Doh! Had I read your post sooner I would have corrected that cut! Alas, I'll have to live with what I've done, haha!

MWirwiki: I hope it turns out pretty! I had even taken that into consideration about the overall length corresponding to the draw length. I know better too! I've read the Bowyer's Bible multiple times and even still that important tidbit slipped my mind! Oh well, I'm completely ok with it drawing at 26". I probably won't flip the tips, I'm a fan the elb design and this one will be more along the lines of a Victorian era elb.

[mikekeswick]

If you get the splices as good as you can then steam them for 30 - 45 mins. When they are good and hot put them together and clamp up until cold. You will then get perfect splices. Simple

[Pat B]

I agree with Mike as far as steaming the splice halves first. I would seal them with shellac first though. Also, TB glue will work for both the backing and the splice IMO Urac is a better glue for the splice.
  If you can get the working portion of the limbs to come right up to the handle you should be OK with a 28" draw. Work slowly and make each scrap count positively. A slight kick up at the tips will help with the full draw string angle. Exercise the stave plenty while tillering too.

[wildcat hunter]

 Just did a Yew X Ash backing @ 66". Scrap piece of wood only 1" wide. It held up for my wife but I wanted to see how much it pulled and at 24" it blew!

[Dag]

Ok, problem solving time. I glued the billets together, unfortunately before I read all of the advice you guys have posted! haha, silly me, oh well.

Anyways, the problem now is that the glued billets look like this...


The tips aren't lined up with the handle area :/

Is it possible to steam straighten without damaging the spliced area? What other ways are there of fixing this little dilemma?

Thank you guys for all your help!

[vinemaplebows]

Apply side pressure during glue up to the back, or wrap with cellophane during glue up to align your wood. I can't tell if you center line on your top billet is centered or not.

[mikekeswick]

Thats a shame.
If I had to deal with that I would use heat to seperate and re-cut the splices.

[Buckeye Guy]

Personally I don't see any problem with it the way it is !!
Guy

[artcher1]

What type glue did you use? If urac, then heat straighten. Next time, consider using a"W" splice, it's easier to align with less than perfect joints.