Winter project - Yew Recurve bow

[Gordon]

I use a coping saw with a fine blade to cut out the shape of the nocks.

[Gordon]

After cutting the nocks with the saw, I clean them up with a chisel and file.





Then I taper the ends with a rasp and file.

[Gordon]

Here is what they look like when I’m done.

[Gordon]

I left the belly flat while floor tillering. Now I’m going to give the limbs a slightly oval cross section. I do this by first taking the sides down with a #50 rasp. I then make another pass closer to the center. Then I smooth the edges with the rasp to create a smooth and pleasing radius along the entire length of the limb.





I then use a scraper to round the edges. And 100 grit sandpaper to take out the tool marks.





The result is a slightly oval cross section along the entire length of the limbs.

[Gordon]

The process of making of creating an oval cross section will take off about 10# of draw weight.  I check the tiller to make sure it is still okay.

Perfect.

[snag]

Wow, this bow has it all! I like the way you did the nocks Gordon.  Is there any danger by exposing the end grain to it splitting?

[Gordon]

Now I am going to shape the handle. I’ve helped quite a few people with making their bows and have noticed that shaping the handle seems to give a lot of new bowyers trouble. I think maybe it is intimidating to cut into your bow with a big rasp and thus beginners tend to over-think the process. It’s really not that hard if you follow the basic steps that I will outline here. For this bow I’m going to make a bulbous handle. This is the simplest and safest handle to make and for me, the most comfortable to shoot.

I begin by squaring off the sides and making the handle width 1 ¼”.  A micro-rasp works really well for this.



Next I reduce the depth of the handle of the handle area to about 1 3/8”. I use a Ferrier’s rasp for this because I really want to hog some wood off quickly.

[Gordon]

Now I round off the handle area around the fades using first a Ferrier’s rasp to get the general shape followed by a #49 rasp.





I use a set of calipers to make sure that both ends of the handle taper evenly into the fades.

[Gordon]

I like a mild swell in my handles. To do that I start by using the rounded side a #49 rasp to cut channels into each corner of the handle.  I use calipers to measure the wood thickness between the channels. When I am done the thickness will be slightly more than 1”.

[Gordon]

Now I shape the handle swell using a rasp.





Next I radius the back and front of the handle with a rasp to begin the rounding process.

[Gordon]

Then I round the handle using a rasp and use a scraper to shape the fades.





And here is the finished handle.

[Gordon]

The bow is now ready to be backed. Here are a couple of pictures of it.





Next up - preparing sinew.

[lesken2011]

Gordon, Gordon, Gordon. If I could only work the hand tools like you do, I don't think I would ever flip a switch. That is a real piece of art already and your not even finished. When I saw you had posted some updates, I read to the end....what I thought was the end, and when I got ready to post, you had already added more pics. I told my wife it's like watching a good play or movie and waiting on the next act. I hope in time, I will learn the patience that you have acquired through obvious hours and hours of working those tools. That means a lot that you took the time on Sunday night to upload these for us. Thanks, Gordon. I await the next stage in this bow.

[coaster500]

Amazing, precise work Gordon...  and a great build-a-long, Great!!!

Thank you

[Gordon]

Thanks Dave. I don't think the danger is any greater than when using standard nock designs. That said, these nocks will be wrapped in sinew when I am done.

Thank you Lesken, what a nice compliment.

Thank you coaster.