Author Topic: year of the snake (Read 4100 times)

soy · « **on:** January 03, 2012, 02:33:33 am »

Money may not buy happiness but it shure dose buy snakey!!!I over paid for this semi super snake off a site that rimes with ebay...lol...said to have been drying for 1year.I chased it down to a good ring and in the morning had a bunch o dry checks took it down 1 more and than seals it real good! How long before it may be safe to work??? Oh I can't leave without letting ya all have a little peak.plan to do a little build along...also any suggestions where to get eather corn snake or Copper head skins? Thanks

fishfinder401 · « **Reply #1 on:** January 03, 2012, 03:09:08 am »

i think i was looking at that same stave, i have an alert set up showing me any new staves that come up for sale

soy · « **Reply #2 on:** January 03, 2012, 04:15:55 am »

Than this may ring a bell

Pappy · « **Reply #3 on:** January 03, 2012, 07:30:02 am »

I would give it a month or 2 and then work it closer to bow size,and seal again.How bad are the worm holes ? Can you get them out of the working limb ? That one looks deep.

Pappy

soy · « **Reply #4 on:** January 03, 2012, 07:39:44 am »

Yes pappy they are deep, my goal was to have a width of 1.75" however I will fall short as their is one on each side so I will prob be about 1.5"hopefully witch is just fine I recon it is just I had my hart set on the wider for cosmetic reasons...was gonna send it to u guys @twin oaks for a blessing but I figured will would have finished it ...witch I have not rule out as of yet

Pappy · « **Reply #5 on:** January 03, 2012, 10:10:07 am »

Sometimes it won't cause much of a problem if it isn't tunneled out where you can't see.I also sometimes back ones like that with deer rawhide. Worm holes aren't like knot holes and they will raise a splinter around the hole.I also have filled them with sawdust and supper glue and packed it in as tight As I could ,that has worked pretty well.

Pappy

Pat B · « **Reply #6 on:** January 03, 2012, 11:35:13 am »

1 3/4" is a bit wide IMO. Take it real slow! Don't rush anything! Don't pust any limits!
Where are the worm holes in this stave?

blackhawk · « **Reply #7 on:** January 03, 2012, 01:40:30 pm »

Pleeeease don't mess that one up....cus its worth a lot of money...lol

soy · « **Reply #8 on:** January 03, 2012, 06:26:05 pm »

Ok the damage is from 1.5"-4"above the fade leaving 1 3/8"in width.
now the? Is do I go 1inch 3/8 and68"ntn or plan b move the handle up 4"and go 1.75 wide and 64"ttt and maby sinew back???

PEARL DRUMS · « **Reply #9 on:** January 03, 2012, 07:20:11 pm »

1 5/8" by 64-66" is plenty wide if your drawing 28" soybean. I have made a few a shade over 1" wide by 62-64" that still made 45-50# bows.

JW_Halverson · « **Reply #10 on:** January 03, 2012, 07:28:15 pm »

Soybean.

PEARL DRUMS · « **Reply #11 on:** January 03, 2012, 07:31:22 pm »

That just means I think he is alright J-dub! Its when I quit picking that your on the bad list.

JW_Halverson · « **Reply #12 on:** January 03, 2012, 07:35:26 pm »

Me too, Oyster-nut.

Man, I love this stave and I'm glad it's not mine. I would devise a way to ruin it and hate myself forever.

Keep posting, soy-boy!

soy · « **Reply #13 on:** January 03, 2012, 09:23:30 pm »

Glad to bring sunshine

soon I may have to put it up like a blackhawk vote plan a or b witch one cosmetic and performance will be more enjoyable

toomanyknots · « **Reply #14 on:** January 03, 2012, 09:34:18 pm »

WHAT!?!? Was that you that bought that stave for like 400 - 500 bucks!?!? I was watching that auction... LOL, that seller must of been grinning from ear to ear,

"Is do I go 1inch 3/8 and68"ntn or plan b move the handle up 4"and go 1.75 wide and 64"ttt and maby sinew back???"

I'd sinew it. Either way I'd sinew just because sinew makes a better bow. Why not. Theres old sinew backed hornbows like 300 years old that still shoot. (or so I hear/read) So why not improve the performance AND extend the life of such a beautiful piece of wood?

Primitive Archer