Author Topic: steam bending or dry heat (Read 10789 times)

chadthompson · « **on:** October 12, 2011, 08:34:03 pm »

I'm thinking of making deflex reflex bow, and would like to know what you guys use for heating in the reflex. I have tried dry heat before, but with no success. Both have shattered at full draw. I have never used steam before and i'm a little nervous about trying it. Also after steaming would you want to dry heat for added strength? or just leave as is? Any help would be appreciated

Pat B · « **Reply #1 on:** October 12, 2011, 10:12:17 pm »

A lot will depend on the wood you are using and if it is seasoned or still green.

Prarie Bowyer · « **Reply #2 on:** October 12, 2011, 10:44:56 pm »

I've been all over the Reflex/Deflex thing lately. If you are working with lumber and making abacked bw then you don't realy need heat UNLESS you want the riser area curved then it helps to prebend that segment. I've found that the glue will hold that shape in and if you use a hot box, then as I understand the fibers will soften and take the new shape somewhat.

For self bows I don't know. I've tinkered with dry heat and heat with oil and it was OK. I'm thinking that If I had a form that I was clamping the bows into I'd use a steam heat. There is a book "Steam Bending Wood" that shows some ultra simple steam ovens. Basicaly large PVC pipe capped at one end with a small hole. Drill a bigenough hold in the cap for the other end to fit a hose from a walpaper steamer OR run a hose from a tea kettle and put that on a camp burner.

Pappy · « **Reply #3 on:** October 13, 2011, 07:41:15 am »

What Pat said,need more info??? I doubt the dry heat was why the others blew,
could have been but probably not.

Pappy

Del the cat · « **Reply #4 on:** October 13, 2011, 08:36:16 am »

IMO Steam is less harsh, but you have to be damn quick getting the bow to the form, unless you build a steam chest around it.
Heat gun is better for in situ use, e.g clamp it up on get it partially clamped , heat the desired area and tighten the clamps or pull it the rest of the way.
Both work, both need some time for the wood to stabilise afterwards.
To me the big advantage of dry heat is you can combine bending and tempering/heat treating into one operation.
Del

Dazv · « **Reply #5 on:** October 13, 2011, 09:10:56 am »

I use a heat gun and oil. with my teacher I have used the heat from a gas flame from a cooker which worked a treat.

PEARL DRUMS · « **Reply #6 on:** October 13, 2011, 11:52:48 am »

I use both now. I steam bend the whole bow at once and let it sit over night. While still in the form I go over the entire bow with a deep, dry heat just short of tempering the wood. I have had great luck since I started doing it this way and my bends stay put much better.

chadthompson · « **Reply #7 on:** October 13, 2011, 03:31:30 pm »

Thanks for the help, The wood i'm using is osage orange, well seasoned and dry. I quarter sawed the log, so grain lines are very nice and straight. I'm using 2 billets and will splice together after the bending process. Again thanks for the input. This bow making is awsome and frustrating all at the same time. I have'nt been making bows long, only about a year but I love it! I

Pat B · « **Reply #8 on:** October 13, 2011, 05:09:27 pm »

Use dry heat(I use a heat gun and olive oil) for seasoned osage. Osage shapes well with dry heat and holds it's shape after cooling and a bit of rehydration time.

mikekeswick · « **Reply #9 on:** October 14, 2011, 05:20:47 am »

Yes dry heat for osage. You've got one of the best woods for heat shaping there - go for it.

Pappy · « **Reply #10 on:** October 14, 2011, 07:23:53 am »

Dry heat . Go slow and easy and it will do most anything you want it to do.

Pappy

Del the cat · « **Reply #11 on:** October 14, 2011, 08:28:56 am »

Quote from: PEARL DRUMS on October 13, 2011, 11:52:48 am

I use both now. I steam bend the whole bow at once and let it sit over night. While still in the form I go over the entire bow with a deep, dry heat just short of tempering the wood. I have had great luck since I started doing it this way and my bends stay put much better.

Yeah, I found that tempering and bending at the same time gives good stability. I had one piece of Yew that just wouldn't stay put until I did that.
Del

Pappy · « **Reply #12 on:** October 14, 2011, 08:48:49 am »

The only problem with steam on a seasoned piece of wood,especially Osage it it will check. The same goes for green wood and dry heat.

I know some will say
I have done it with no problem but ,I have also but it will check more times than not, It is like some never seal the back of white wood after pealing the bark,it won't check all of the time but it will sometime so it an worth the chance for me,So I don't steam anything older than 2 to 3 years and don't dry heat anything fresher than that until it has been steamed. Steam believe it or not seem to push the moisture out of the wood.

:)I don't know if you would call it heat tempering or not ,but I do use a lot of heat when straighting or re-flexing a stave.

Sorry got a little off subject here.

Pappy

chadthompson · « **Reply #13 on:** October 14, 2011, 01:57:28 pm »

Thanks again for all the help and info. I guess i'll just have to jump in and try it. Worst that can happen is a broken bow and and shattered ego.

Del the cat · « **Reply #14 on:** October 15, 2011, 09:35:15 am »

Nah, you'll be fine... youll think nothing is happening then suddenly you feel the wood just relax, just don't lean on it harder than you think the wood should stand. Patience, you'll know when it's right.
Good luck
Del

Primitive Archer