Bareshaft Tuning

[CherokeeKC]

I am trying to find out the correct spine for my viburnum shoot arrows.  Can someone explain the steps they take to do this?  I have cut four to 32 inches and shot them at 5 yds.  The 740g,680g,580g arrows hit target with the nock end of arrow to right of the point end.  What does this mean?  I have a 645g arrow that flies pretty straight but it had knots that i havnt filed down yet.  Any help is appreciated.  Im trying to get at least 3-6 arrows made for bow season Oct. 1.  Lol i know waiting till the last minute!

[CherokeeKC]

Forgot to add im shooting a 50 lb Bear recurve

[bowtarist]

OK, here's my best effort, and I'm by far an advanced arrowsmith.  I hardly even tune my arrows, I mark them different and shoot them different.  Takes a lot of shooting, i.e. string music played daily.   

Anyway, here we go.  Do you  have points on them?  You need to.  Right now your arrows are over spined, nock right of point on impact.  It's good that they are long and heavy.  Move back about 5 more yards, 10 paces or so total.  Shoot again from there to make sure the same thing is happening.  Nock to the right, like you said.  I think your arrows are heavy, so I'd sand em down til they were a little closer to the same weight.  Unless you have a really long draw, you could cut them down an inch, but I wouldn't worry about it yet. By sanding them you have lowered their spine.  Shoot them again from about 10 steps back.  What you are looking for w/ bare tuning a long shaft is for the nock to be facing left of the arrow point, this is under spined. (This is for a right hand shooter.) NOW, start cutting the arrow length down a 1/4 to 3/8" @ a time and re applying points and shooting again and repeating until the shaft shoots relativly striaght fron 10 paces.  This is the proper arrow length.  Fletch em up and you got some shooters.  Use the same weight point you plan on shooting while doing this.  I like to shoot blunts, they tear up a target, but are much more verstile for my shooting.  Sheew that was long, hope it helps.  Some of you arrowsmiths chime in, dpg 

[CherokeeKC]

Thanks bowtarist!  I was hoping they were heavy so i could sand them down to proper spine.  I purposefully cut them a little big.  I have a 28 inch draw if that helps with anyones suggestions.  So I have to put a point on them to properly bareshaft tune?  Right now i dont have a point. 

[CherokeeKC]

One more question:  I know a lot of people shoot 50 lb bows.  What overall arrow weight and point weight do you all use?

[Pat B]

The standard arrow spine measurement is made with a 28" arrow and a 125gr head. For each inch over 28" you can reduce the effective spine by 5# per inch and for every inch under 28 add 5# per inch. Heavier heads(more than 125) decrease the effective spine weight and lighter heads increase it.

  I never bare shaft tune arrows. I use my spine tester to find the stiff side of the arrow and that side goes against the bow. With my cane and hardwood shoot arrows I cut them to 29" to 30" for my 26" draw. The natural taper of these shafts will make the effective spine of the arrow 10# less than it actually reads of a spine tester.
  When I make a shoot arrow I will take the diameter of the big end down to about 3/8" with a thumb plane and sand paper. Once the shaft is straightened I mount the head and do a spin test. If the arrow spins true I fletch it and take it out and shoot it. If it shoots well I put it with the other good shooters. If not I remove the fletching and add a spiral flu flu for small game heads.

[bowtarist]

Good info Pat.  One question, ...you need to put the point on before spine testing?  I wouldn't think so, but maybe? 

Once the shaft is straightened I mount the head and do a spin test.

[Pat B]

All spine testing does is measure the deflection of the shaft when you hang a 2# weight from the center...so you don't need a point on the shaft to check spine. You will have to have a point on the shaft when you shoot it because the point weight affects the effective spine and arrow flight.

[bowtarist]

Gottcha, thanks Pat. 

CKC, Spine testing doesn't have to be hard.  Two nails 28" apart and a weight will do the trick,, 2lbs. is standard, but any weight would work for deflection.  If you already have an arrow that you know the spine weight of or that shoots good, you can start w/ that to get an idea and make some marks on the wall, etc.  I may have learned that from PatB too. 

Have a gooder, dpgratz

[Pat B]

Actually the two nails should be 26" apart as should the uprights on a spine tester if you are useing the standard measurements. If you have a good shooting arrow with a known spine the simple "2 nail" spine tester will let you compare other arrows to it.

[CherokeeKC]

Thanks Pat!  I havnt found a correctly spined shoot shaft for my bow yet.  Can I use a carbon arrow to get appropriate spine?  I built a pointer type spine tester last year sometime so good to go in that department

[Pat B]

You probably can use a carbon arrow. I've never compared wood to carbon so I can't say for sure. The difference in diameter might make a difference. Give it a try. If it puts you in the ball park you should be able to tweak it from there.

[Pappy]

No ,carbon and aluminum won't compair,It has a different scale,not sure what it is but I do know it is different. 
   Pappy

[CherokeeKC]

Ok.  I will mount some 125 grain field tips on the shafts and shoot again and see if the nock end still goes to right of point then adjust accordingly.  I am also gonna try and keep the arrows long (31-32 inches) for my 28 inch draw.  I want at least 500 grain arrows for my 50 lb bow correct?  I think I might shoot for 600 or more total.  Is this a good range?

[Pat B]

The extra length will help the arrow get around the bow.   Remember for each inch over 28" you can subtract 5# of effective spine weight...so for arrows that are 32" long the effective spine weight will be 20# lighter than what they read on the spine tester.   Shoot the arrows long and trim them 1" at a time until you get good flight.