Different kinds of set

[Badger]

Any one ever notice set is not always the same even if it measures the same. I have noticed some bows will take some set and I give them a little shove backward and the set will appear to go away, as far as a photo goes anyway, other bows might take an inch or so of set and if you push back on it nothing happens, this bow is harder and will have higher brace height tension. I think on some wood the back will tend to pull the bow back into shape even though the belly has accumalaterd condierable stress damage allready. These bows will kind of have that rubbery feelingwhen not braced. Any other takes on this? Steve

[Hillbilly]

I made one like that, seemed like after about twenty inches, it didn't gain hardly any weight between there and 26". Shot like a bow ten pounds lighter.

[NOMADIC PIRATE]

not enought experiance here to contribute

[tom sawyer]

I'd say that the more the set is distributed over the entire limb, the faster it will recover.  Sometimes its hard to see exactly where the set is coming from, I should do the limb drawings that Torges advocates.  That'd give you a good look at just where the changes are occurring.

[Badger]

Lennie, not so much about where the changes are occuring more in how they are occuring. Some bows can be hard as a rock with 1 1/2" set, others can be rubbery most are somewhere inbetween. My obeservation is that when you unstring the bow and push back on it, opposite the way you would push to brace you will notice that some bows just push right back into shape, other bows feel had and stay put right where they are while others most commonly will respond to a very firm push back to get a small response. I think moisture plays a good part in this along with some wood specimens just being better. Steve

[Dane]

Maybe you guys can help me. I just finished tillering a red elm flatbow, 65" nock to nock, 1.75" wide at the fades, tapering about 16" from the tips to about 3/4" at the tips. The stave originally had about 2" of (deflex or reflex , always get those mixed up - the tips curved up in the direction of the back) on one limb, and a bit more on the other. The set was introduced during the first low brace tillering, not sure quite why, but it performs great. It is fast, very responsive, no hand shock at all, and just a lot of fun. It is far more accurate than I am, as well, and the sting is not exactly in the center of the handle, but that doesn't seem to affect it. The set is about 1.5" measured from the handle. It doesn't seem to lesson after unbracing it at all, for ten minutes of for two hours of shooting.

I like this bow, but wonder if maybe it is a failure? It pulls 50 lbs. exactly at 26.5".

Dane

[George Tsoukalas]

No, Dane, your bow is not a failure. If it were you wouldn't be enjoying it so. Badger, I think the last part of one of your posts hit it. Moisture may play a role in the phenomenon you describe.  I really haven't noticed much difference in set except I always seem to get some. Jawge

[Dane]

Jawge, thanks. I just got off the phone with Jamie, and he mentioned that the wood may have not been totally seasoned. Foolishly, I never checked with my moisture meter.

I'm going to let that process finish, and then finish and enjoy the bow.

Dane

[Marc St Louis]

I know what you mean Steve and I agree.

[duffontap]

Yeah, I think I know what you mean.  It's almost like the belly compresses and becomes stronger.  Interesting.

               J. D.

[tom sawyer]

I guess if your bow is more overbuilt then the belly wouldn't be as compressed and therefore might feel a bit spongier.  I think heat treatment might also make for a harder, less spongy belly.

[Badger]

Dane, your bow is not at all a failure, 1 1/2" set for a bow is pretty typical. I finished up a little elm bow last weeK that took almost 2" of set and when you brace the bow it feels like a bow with a little reflex, still very hard, bow shoots great, the osage bow I poste last week i think has a couple inches of reflex but is soft and does not perform well at all. I think my point is that you cant tell much just by looking at a bow. Last year I built a 140# osage longbow, I can easily brace the bow by myself and the bow took almost zero set, right now I am working on a 120# american longbow and I cannot brace the bow without help and it has about 1" of set. I can only bend it far enough for about a 3 1/2" brace height and my girlfriend has to slip the string on the nock for me while I hold it LOL. I think how carefully we work the bow down and not bracing it too soon have a lot to do with how hard the bow stays and how it will perform. Steve

[NOMADIC PIRATE]

I better stop bracing my bows when they are still 90# +

[Dane]

Dane, your bow is not at all a failure, 1 1/2" set for a bow is pretty typical. I finished up a little elm bow last weeK that took almost 2" of set and when you brace the bow it feels like a bow with a little reflex, still very hard, bow shoots great, the osage bow I poste last week i think has a couple inches of reflex but is soft and does not perform well at all. I think my point is that you cant tell much just by looking at a bow. Last year I built a 140# osage longbow, I can easily brace the bow by myself and the bow took almost zero set, right now I am working on a 120# american longbow and I cannot brace the bow without help and it has about 1" of set. I can only bend it far enough for about a 3 1/2" brace height and my girlfriend has to slip the string on the nock for me while I hold it LOL. I think how carefully we work the bow down and not bracing it too soon have a lot to do with how hard the bow stays and how it will perform. Steve

Steve, thanks. Here are a few shots of the bow as it now is.

[attachment deleted by admin]

[DCM]

Dane,

The width profile of your bow in integral to it's analysis and hard to judge with just figures.  While no project is a failure, every project offers an opportunity to imrpove the next one.  Without seeing the width profile of you bow, I'd say you could have saved youself 1/2" or more of follow from having the limbs bend more evenly along it's limbs, towards the fades and/or mid limb to preserve this nice shooting manners, I would guess.  I love elm for bow wood.