Hunnic Bow ( fulldraw page 3 )

[toomanyknots]

I don't know how it's gonna turn out. Ive read good and bad things about sinew backing with titebond. I soaked the sinew first but rung it out as good as I could before soaking it in glue and applying. I hope it stays together. It's only one layer with just a little overlapping so I am wondering maybe if I might get some sinew coming loose? Man I hope not. How long should I wait before tillering it? Next day? (It'll be at least 2 days anyway cause I still gotta bind the ears and by the handle)

[dbb]

Im absolutely no expert ,but TB3 is waterproof.
That makes me guess a pretty long drying time.

[Kegan]

Im absolutely no expert ,but TB3 is waterproof.
That makes me guess a pretty long drying time.

That seemed to be the concensus- definately as long if not longer than normal hide glue. Best of luck though! It should definately hold together, the question is will it help hold the bow's profile

[toomanyknots]

I figure, as it's been pretty hot these days, ill throw it il the van in the hot sun all day to help er dry out. I got a fan on it right now. I know I have glued wet linen to bows plenty of times and haven't had a problem. Anybody use titebond to glue sinew before? I've read about 10 old threads on here about this, and have read contradicting info...

[bigcountry]

Thats going to be a wild profile

Can't wait to see what it looks like.

[blackhawk]

Holy siyahs batman  

Can't wait to see this ones outcome. What type of wood is the bow core and those long ears? It'll look and feel hard dry in a week and can be shot,but it takes longer than hide glue to fully cure. JMHO but I might throw another layer or two of sinew on that one(pending on what type of wood and whether its a solid ring underneath or a bias ring board). Its gonna take a lot of stress with that design.

[toomanyknots]

The whole bow ears included is red oak. The limbs are from a real dense piece. 2 1/2" wide to 1 1/4" or maybe 1" wide at tips where the ears start, a consistent limb thickness of 1/4", so the limbs are basically pyramid bow style. It's pretty short as well, but might have to be a short draw bow then. I would have pulled more reflex if I wasn't afraid of the handle coming unglued from the limbs.

"It'll look and feel hard dry in a week and can be shot,but it takes longer than hide glue to fully cure."

Hmm, thank you Blackhawk, did not know that.    I'm confused on how the hell I am going to tiller this out? Cause the ears don't touch the string in the design...

[aero86]

i hope the redoak is up to the taking the compression on the belly!  is that a v splice or a butt joint for the siyahs?

[Will H]

Man that is a crazy lookin profile! Can't wait to see how this turns out!

[toomanyknots]

"i hope the redoak is up to the taking the compression on the belly!  is that a v splice or a butt joint for the siyahs?"

Just a but joint. I just bind em on with titebond 3 soaked linen. I hope the red oak holds up too. It's real wide and thin limb and only one layer of sinew hopefully (I'm hoping) will keep stress down on the belly. But this is the first time for me trying this bow design/dimensions at all...

[juniper junkie]

you are a brave man I wouldnt get in too big of a hurry on adding more sinew, you need to let the first layer breathe out before adding another layer. I assume you coated the limbs with the glue before adding the sinew, this helps the binding. that is a wild design should be fast.

[aero86]

oh, ok.  did the sinew go up the siyah?  or did you just put sinew to each side of it?  if you put another layer of sinew on, wait at least a week or so to let it dry out.  then after that, two weeks.  course, if you live anywhere down south, your van idea will dry it quick.  i know it gets hot enough in cars in the parking lot here to drive me out of them, should drive the moisture out too!  lol

im very interested in how this turns out as well. i havent built a bow in months, i need to get back into it.

[Christophero]

I've used TB3 and am happy with the results.  I applied no less than 3 layers and maybe a 4th a couple of times, all at once.  I let it sit for a month before final tillering.  Months later in dryer weather it tightened up even more with a much higher draw weight than when first tillered.  The osage recurve has held up well but the white wood recurve's belly just couldn't take the compression and gave out the first day.  That is a lot of work for the results in applying sinew.  I'll stick with osage from now on.

[toomanyknots]

Ok, now I got something weird goin on. The limbs somehow, from the sinew drying, are concaving in on themselves with the back sticking up and sides curling in... ...it's kinda freakin me out, as the sinew is only like partly dry!?!  It's hard to explain and I haven't got a picture yet but to put it simply the limbs used to be flat on the belly and now they are concaved if ya get what I mean. Never had this happen before. Anybody else experience this? If it curls anymore I am afraid the handle or siyahs might pop off.

[dbb]

Just a bit of brainstorming here,but if the glue and sinew is thinner at the edges on a very thin and broad limb i can imagine something like that happening as it will dry uneven.
perhaps covering it with some plasticwrap could slow it down and even things out??
I have never done anything like that,but i have had glued woood warp temporaily and then end up straight.

/Mikael