Sapling Bows/Staves?

[Lee Slikkers]

I have cut down a couple smaller, what I would call sapling bow staves as they are too small in diameter for splits, and I got to wondering and thinking about how these might differ from a true split or stave from a larger tree.  Arrows have spine and obviously so do smaller saplings.  Is there a need or desire to work the sapling in regards to the natural spine or is it of no regards and a person would be better off looking at the lay of the sapling for natural reflex, handle positioning, etc?

Thanks for any thoughts or opinions.

(I just processed 4 Syringa saplings, 1 Hawthorn, 2 Paper Birch and 2 Flowering Dogwoods...some of these appear to have some real potential so I'd love to make sure I use them in the smartest manner possible.  Oh, also wish I had known last weekend that Dogwood was such a decent bow wood as the place were camping at had dozens & dozens of 2"-4" diameter STICK STRAIGHT dogwood saplings!  Ugg, almost worth the 3 hour round trip to do snag a few so I have some to work on next year)

[aznboi3644]

1.5" and smaller saplings I just mark the handle and start chopping away wood.  No splitting...just choose a back and get to work.

[Pat B]

I agree with anzboi. I would choose the best side for the back , reduce from the belly and leave the handle round. If you clamp it in a caul with some backset in it it should hold most of it and will help the "pole" to dry without warping.
  I've made a few "pole" bows from 2" diameter osage with good results and saw some of Keenan's sapling bows at the Classic this year.

[Young Bowyer]

Ive made fine bows with 2 in. saplings, they work fine, just get a back and work like you would anything else, in fat I made my first bow from a sapling

[ErictheViking]

Lee, aznboi is right, but you may want to consider if the wood you harvested can handle a high crowned back that is a given on a sapling bow.Also on non-white woods you may end up with more sapwood than heartwood which isn't bad if the sapwood is sound. may also decrown the sapling to help with the high back.  As far as "spine" in a sapling stave. If the sapling grew out at an angle you may get differing "spine" with the reaction wood. vine maple is notorious with this. You could get a bow that twists because one side is stronger. if it grew relatively straight just plan the bow out so you surround the knots(if any) with wood or elimanate them.

[Josh B]

The majority of my bows are 'sapling bows' or branches, depending on what I find on my never ending quest for the ultimate unknown bow wood.  I look for side that offers the best combination of reflex, tip alignment, and least amount of fatal flaws. I make that the back, shave down the sides to an even taper to the tips, and start tillering.  I have gotten to the point where with super strong tension woods like oak, mesquite and countless others, I prefer small diameter staves (1 1/2" to 4").  IMO the high crown and flat belly go along way toward reducing set. Sort of like trapping the back the easy way.

[Lee Slikkers]

Wow, didn't expect that many replies for this topic but I REALLY appreciate all the great feedback.  Guess my gut reaction, just to pick the best alignment for tips/handle and natural reflex, was a good one for a change  .  Most of the saplings I am considering are white woods so no real worries about too much sapwood (unless I decide to go look for some Osage sucker/shoots) so just bark off (have one I'm trying with a bark on but it's an experiment so I'm ok if it doesn't pan out as planned)

Looking forward to trying some of these real soon as the white woods appear to dry out in about 4-5 weeks once debarked and left in a warmer location.

This place rocks btw...I used to surf on a whole bunch of sites but lately it's this place and 2 others.  Thanks!

 

[dwardo]

Most of my bows are made from 2-4 inch saplings.
I prefer saplings as i can run with one in the hand where as i tend to get caught when lopping down bigger stuff and trying to run away with it. 

[crooketarrow]

   I do HICKORY sapling bows alot . I perfer them in the 4 inch range. This way I don't have such a high cown. Which really dos'nt matter about HICKORY. Just the way I learned but it dos't matter some in some woods. After cut I cut them down to simi bow form and ad reflex. I like the saplings when there a natural reflex to it. I don'nt know if it matters but  I was taught. That when the reflex is on the wind wart side or if that wind wart side is the clean side for the back are best. Other that DOG WOOD I''ve never used any other sapling it's always been staves.

[Lee Slikkers]

Most of my bows are made from 2-4 inch saplings.
I prefer saplings as i can run with one in the hand where as i tend to get caught when lopping down bigger stuff and trying to run away with it. 

I resemble that comment 

[Lee Slikkers]

Thanks Crooketarrow, the higher crown will be something new for me to experiment with and learn from so I am looking forward to it...

I have a very short Dogwood sapling that I originally cut down for a walking stick as it had some very neat character given the fact that a strangling creeper vine had wound its way barber pole style up the 50" length.  The Dogwood had almost grown / barked over the creeper but I was able to debark and unwrap the creep without nicking the 1st growth ring on the Dogwood.  Now, I am really wondering if making a very unique character bow out of this short sapling would be possible...maybe a pic of the piece would be of interest or helpful?

Thanks~

[blackhawk]

Post it lee...I never get sick of looking at trees n wood. I think I located some wild plum,if so ill try to cut ya some branches to further your sapling/branch stave collection n bring em up as well.

[Lee Slikkers]

Blackhawk, plum would be cool...I'm sure we have it around here somewhere but I've not run into any in my Woods Wanderings.  Thanks!

Here are a couple shots of the Dogwood character sapling:







I guess my initial concerns and worries would be 1) the additional mass at those growth areas would result in a very sluggish bow and 2) one I started to reduce down the back I would likely violate portions of those curls and I wouldn't be sure they would survive the tortures a bow would place on them and 3) lastly I've read the dogwood really resists any heat type manipulations and as you can see from the profile there is a fairly large curve on the one half of the sapling.

The good news is that I harvested a 2" Dogwood sapling yesterday that is as straight as an arrow and should be a fairly straight forward build.

Thanks for looking~

[johnston]

Lee I am gonna impose with a question...or two.

If you de-crown a sapling do you chase it to a ring for the length of the wood or if the rings are not distinct do you take off a given amount?

(And fellers, in my opinion, 4 inches in diameter is a tree.)

And how good is the durability of a sapling bow?

Thanks Lee, back to you.

Lane