Looks like you're coming along nicely. I personally don't care too much what the brace configuration looks like on a character bow and focus more on the full draw profile. On a "straight" bow (like I'd ever see and work one of those...) I do try to make the brace profile look good as part of the tillering process. Sometimes limbs that appear to be out of sync seem to even themselves out as they're shot in. I agree that you have to deal with keeping the string on. Even there though, recurved/reflexed bows are tricky to get strung at first when the draw weight/string tension is high at brace. That shouldn't be as bad as you near your target draw weight and the string tension at brace goes down. I keep my tips wide at first so I can have deep string nocks if things are a little crooked. Then, if there's twist you can narrow the limb tip from the weak side to help that. Sometimes a little heat makes everything a lot better. A picture from tip to tip while strung might help us.
Having said all that, just keep tillering and take it slow. You're doing great.
George
