I'm baffled

[artcher1]

Eddie, the part of the node with the furrows or indentation should be at the 12 and 6 o'clock position......Art

[HatchA]

Is that what James is referring to by "throwing the left hand"?

I thihnk it might mean the technique used in kyudo where the left hand is jerked outward as the string pushes the arrow along?

[artcher1]

That "swishing" motion is generally caused in cane/boo arrows from the alternating weak/stiff sides of the nodes. Getting the leaf stem scar to the 6 and 12 o'clock should take care of that problem.

To find the correct spine for cane/boo, I would start with the arrow spine being the same poundage of the bow, and 2-3" longer using a 125 gr point. Then shorten from there.

Is the bow weight you mentioned at 28" Eddie, or longer?

[mullet]

Art, this is what I was hoping for. I have the nodes positioned at 9 0'clock, against the handle. The bow is pulling 54# at 31". That is what I'm drawing with a Thumb ring.

Hatch, you are correct, that is what I meant.

[markinengland]

I am told By Thomas Duvenay that with thumb ring a shaft should be 20# higher than the same bow shot with finger release. I imagine that 85-90# or even 90-95# would thus be what you need. If your arrow length is greater than 31 inches you might need to add something like 5# per inch of extra arrow length. Hope this helps.

[mullet]

Thanks Mark, Maybe that is why the 55/75#, heavy Grizzly Stick carbon shoots perfect out of it. It is also tapered. I just don't want to hunt with carbons unless I have to.

[artcher1]

You would need a 69# @ 28" to be spined 54# @ 31" Eddie. Natural taper of cane/boo arrows will account for the need of a 10-15# lighter spined arrow for that width handle.

So, if you make your arrows 32" long, w/125gr point, 70-75# spine should get you in the ball park if my math is right. Art

PS Just read Mark's reply, and if what he says is correct, try either Tonkin or the Japanese boo to get the higher spine.

[mullet]

Thak you Art. That is what I was looking for. I've got two dozen, nice, straight tonkin shafts I got from Mark.

And, I should position the stiff side at 12 or 6 o'clock? I always thought it went towards the handle.

[artcher1]

On most boo/canes I've made up the "side" of the leaf stem area is generally the stiffer side. But on the hill cane (and a few of the others), seems to be the exact opposite, the leaf scar area is stronger. No matter though, still need to orient the "side" of the node to the bow because of the alternating nodes.

So forget about stiff sides Eddie, that can be misleading. On the tonkin shafts, just place those little dimples of the the leaf stem scars at the 6 and 12 o'clock position and you're good to go. Let us know how that works for you......Art

[mullet]

Thanks, Art.