Overlay tips??? (Picture added)

[snag]

I have an osage stave that I have roughed down to where I can put it on a short string. But I need to put some tip overlays on it. I used a belt sander to sand the tips flat at the proper angle in preparation to the overlays. But the area where the sanding stops on the back, area closest to the grip, is irregular because of the contour of the back. How do you prepare the overlay to fit that irregular shape? I am assuming you can't glue the overlay on and then file and sand it so they are flush because of violating the ring on the back....? Any help would be appreciated. I will try and put some pics up tonight.

[Pat B]

Where your overlays go should be dead flat as so with the glueing portion of the overlay. I pre taper the overlay at the back portion so it goes on with very little rise from the back of the bow. It is easy to shape the sides and ends once the overlays are on but on the back it isn't easy to get a good transition from overlay to tip without damaging the back ring unless you preshape the overlay first.
  It is not necessary to put overlays on until the bow is completed. If you use temproary grooves in the side of the limb tips you can attach your string for tillering. But, since you have already ground down the tips you will need to put the overlays down.
  How about some pics so we know exactly what you are talking about.

[snag]

My first mistake... ...was filing string groove into the back of the tip. I had already violated the back ring. So at this point I am going to glue on some overlays to be able to tiller it.  I have sanded the back of the tip in preparation for the overlay. It's just getting the overlay's edge to fit the contour of that sanded area perfectly that concerns me. I get the feeling I am making this a lot harder than it should be. Oh well, that's the learning process me it seems.    I'll get some pics up tonight. Thanks Pat.  David

[snag]

Here is where I am with preparing to glue some overlays on this bow.



As you can see, because of the irregular contour of the back, when I sanded it flat the line where the sanding stops on the back is irregular also. So, I'm just wondering how I am going to shape the overlay to fit it perfectly so that I don't have to sand where the taper meets the back of the bow...so I don't violate that ring.

[Pat B]

Don't worry about getting them to match perfectly. If the feathered overlay is over the feathered top ring of the limb you will not have any trouble. Even with the way it is now you can put in side nocks and tiller without adding the overlay now. Just have the nocks below where the back ring and the one below it meet.

[snag]

Oh good. I didn't want to mess this one up. Thanks Pat, David

[Gordon]

Keep the last 3 inches of the tips stiff and you will have no problems at all with an overlay.

[medicinewheel]

Looks good, no problem. Do as Gordon says!
Maybe you want to have a look at my post on how I make overlays; just scroll down the how-to section, and you'll find it.

[Del the cat]

I don't see much of a problem, it looks pretty normal to me. The trick to blending an overlay in is to shape the overlay to a great extent before gluing and then when you finally blend in put some tape over the actual bow surface and work v carefully with a fine file (I use needle files, a half round will work even the finest areas. I also have a 'Permagrit' file, brilliant ) and fine grade wet & dry paper.
Del

[Pappy]

That looks fine to me also,I don't do them that way but know a lot of folks that do and have see a lot done that way and that looks about right. I put mine on with super glue,the thicker type and it will fill the gap if you have a little. I just put mine on the top so I don't have to file through a growth ring.    
   Pappy

[GregB]

You've probably done this already, but just to ensure a flat surface you can slide the edge of a steel ruler back and forth over the overlay surface to ensure it is flat prior to gluing.

[Eric Krewson]

I never get a perfect fit right off the belt sander or even with a filed surface. I hold the overlay on the bow and hold the combo up to a light to see where the gaps are. It is not unusual for me to have a slight arc in the finished fit. Invisible in the finished glue-up but I sand where I need to to have a good fit.

I leave my overlays square until after I glue them on and use a Popsicle stick as a clamp pad on the belly when I tighten my 2" C clamps. The Popsicle stick will not slip off a rounded belly and will conform somewhat to the shape.

[snag]

As usual, this is all good info. Thanks guys.
Gordon, that makes perfect sense.
Del, I was thinking of the tape and jeweler's files. Got just the file for this!
Medicinewheel, I will head to the How-To section.
Eric and GregB, I did use a 6" sanding wheel on this...but always better to check it with a square.

I'm having to change my thinking from glass bows to selfbows. Sure is fun. 

[Sidewinder]

I would like to ask a question? Is there much comcern of ring violation near the overlay transition from the back if its in a non working section of the limb?  Danny

[ohma]

Sidewinder as Gordon stated keep the last few inches stiff and you wont have a problem.