Author Topic: Difference in billets  (Read 6728 times)

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Offline JW_Halverson

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Re: Difference in billets
« Reply #15 on: December 20, 2010, 10:49:07 pm »
I always use radiation to stain my osage bows.  Sunlight turns them naturally to the most beautiful color imaginable.  Funny how they start off such a nasty pee-in-snow color but improve with age. 
Guns have triggers. Bicycles have wheels. Trees and bows have wooden limbs.

Offline NTD

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Re: Difference in billets
« Reply #16 on: December 20, 2010, 10:52:26 pm »
 ;D I like the pee in snow color and only take my osage bow out at night to shoot so I can keep it that way ::) Nah, but I do like that bright yellow ;)
Nate Danforth

Offline JW_Halverson

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Re: Difference in billets
« Reply #17 on: December 20, 2010, 11:36:12 pm »
Always wondered if someone was to use UV resistant Spar Varnish on a 'sage bow if it would stay that whizzy color?
Guns have triggers. Bicycles have wheels. Trees and bows have wooden limbs.

Offline gstoneberg

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Re: Difference in billets
« Reply #18 on: December 21, 2010, 12:29:30 am »
Don't you have a stave to test with??   ;D ;D ;D ;D
St Paul, TX

Offline Steve Milbocker

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Re: Difference in billets
« Reply #19 on: December 21, 2010, 10:33:11 am »
Hit targeted weight at 27" but also heard a tick  :'( Couldn't find anything at first but then I felt it, a small diagonal splinter about 3" past the fade in a heavily burled section of the dense limb. Might have to chalk this one up to lessons learned or further my education by sinewing the back. Any other suggestions would be appreciated.
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Offline gstoneberg

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Re: Difference in billets
« Reply #20 on: December 21, 2010, 10:57:57 am »
Couldn't you wrap it with decorative thread there and then do a matching wrap on the other side to make it look good?  A single course of sinew would also save the bow. 

George
St Paul, TX

Offline Steve Milbocker

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Re: Difference in billets
« Reply #21 on: December 21, 2010, 11:29:55 am »
Thats a good idea George. Will regular thread be strong enough? I guess I don't know what you mean by a single course of sinew. I know that this is the last time I'll try missed matched billets, the weight difference makes it feel like my old Oly bow with a 36" stabilizer ;D
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Offline gstoneberg

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Re: Difference in billets
« Reply #22 on: December 21, 2010, 12:17:45 pm »
Yes, I think so Steve.  A tight wrap of thread is extremely stong.  Others will have done that more than I have and I would defer to them, but I usually walk into my wife's sewing room and ask her to pick a nice color for me.  I'm pretty sure I use a poly-cotten blend and I super glue it down.  Certainly there are more primitive options, sinew and linen (flax) thread being the obvious ones.  I like the color options in modern thread.

Course just means layer when you're talking about sinew.  Normally, when I sinew back a bow I put 2 layers of sinew down being very careful to overlap the bundle ends.  However, in this case where you're holding down a sliver, if you make sure the problem spot is in the center of a bundle, you could get by with just a single layer of sinew.  That means you will pound/process less sinew.  On the other hand, if you're also wanting to hold some reflex or flat out guarantee the back is bulletproof, do a normal 2 course sinew job and you'll never have to worry about that bow's back failing.

I wouldn't give up on putting different pieces of osage together either in a takedown or a spliced stave.  I do it all the time.  Normally I find that different weights in osage billets are caused by different moisture contents.  Are you sure both pieces were dry?

George
St Paul, TX

Offline Steve Milbocker

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Re: Difference in billets
« Reply #23 on: December 21, 2010, 01:14:03 pm »
They were marked about a year and a half ago,I'm sure Gary would not have sent them otherwise. Also the bow still maintains about 3/4" of reflex.As for spliced billets, I wouldn't have a problem with them if they were closer in physical weight. I just don't like the unbalanced feel. I took a magnifying glass and looked at the "sliver". It goes a little deeper than I thought. Do you still think a wrap will work or would sinew be a better choice?
« Last Edit: December 21, 2010, 01:19:03 pm by Steve Milbocker »
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Offline bcbull

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Re: Difference in billets
« Reply #24 on: December 21, 2010, 01:20:38 pm »
ID SUPER GLUE THE SPLINTER  AND THEN WRAP IT WITH SINEW THREAD  OR ARTIFICAL SINEW  BROCK

Offline gstoneberg

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Re: Difference in billets
« Reply #25 on: December 21, 2010, 01:29:27 pm »
Hmm, sure sounds like they were dry.  Very interesting.

Any way you could post a photo of the problem area?  I've not had a sliver raise that I remember going deep.  Is there a knot or some other wood imperfection there?  A picture would really help.

George
St Paul, TX

Offline Steve Milbocker

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Re: Difference in billets
« Reply #26 on: December 21, 2010, 02:13:12 pm »
I have trouble posting pics and the camera we have will not show enough detail.I actually have to use a magnifying glass to see it very well,thats how I knew it went deeper than I originally thought. The area with the crack has a lot of swirl to the grain and it is on the edge of the limb. I'll get some 420 LocTite Brock and give it a go. How do you super glue thread? Wrap first then apply over the thread? How far on each side of the crack should I wrap?
« Last Edit: December 21, 2010, 03:08:26 pm by Steve Milbocker »
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Offline artcher1

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Re: Difference in billets
« Reply #27 on: December 21, 2010, 03:41:33 pm »
Strongest thread I've found is the upholstery thread Steve. Jean or coats/buttons threads are pretty strong also. Color selection isn't the greatest though.

For super gluing, saturate your wrap well and take a folded (about 4 times) paper towel, and as you rotate the bow, wipe off the glue. But there is a little trick to not smearing the glue. You must constantly keep a dry section of towel in contact with the glue at all times to prevent spreading the stuff all other the place. In other words, when you finished, you'll have showing on the towel a strip of glue about as wide as your wrap and about 3-4" long instead of one big glop on the towel. Clear as mud I'm sure..............just do the best you can. Art

Offline bcbull

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Re: Difference in billets
« Reply #28 on: December 21, 2010, 06:54:47 pm »
steve  do as art says  but go to wally world or harbor fright get a cheap tube of glue  heck no need to spend 15 bucks for loctite haha if it blows ur not missn much more that way  my way of thinkin why put more money in it if  it dont make it lol

Offline artcher1

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Re: Difference in billets
« Reply #29 on: December 21, 2010, 07:18:01 pm »
Thanks for bring that up about the cheap runny SG bcbull. That's just what I use. It does a much better job then the thicker glue.......Art