Author Topic: Draw length of selfbows? (Read 9572 times)

snag · « **on:** October 06, 2010, 09:11:24 pm »

Sure seems like a lot of these selfbows don't allow you to draw to your full draw length. Is it because you reach the poundage you want and just stop there? Seems a shame that you have to sacrifice proper form in shooting just to arrive at a poundage. Am I missing something here? If I was tillering a bow and I got to 28" and it was less than the poundage I wanted I would either live with less poundage or I'd give the bow to someone who would like to shoot it......? I just couldn't live with shooting a bow with poor form because I couldn't draw to my full back extention.

bryan irwin · « **Reply #1 on:** October 06, 2010, 09:28:28 pm »

bows that are tillerd 50#@28 does'nt mean you can't pull it to 30" i tillerd my bow to55#@28 but draw30"just adds more pounds.

snag · « **Reply #2 on:** October 06, 2010, 09:39:01 pm »

If the bow can take it then sure that works. But I see some guys on this site showing their bows at "full draw"...but they don't look like they are at full draw. I thought maybe the bow was starting to stack and it couldn't be pulled back any further without damage to the bow or to the guy! haha

aaron · « **Reply #3 on:** October 06, 2010, 11:02:40 pm »

not everyone has the same shooting style. what some call full draw is not full draw to others. if correct form to you is to have your back muscles in play, your arm straight and your anchor at your jaw- then you'll need to make your bows so they reach that length... but if another guy wants to draw with a bent bow arm and anchor on his nose, he'll make his bows for that draw length. each is at full draw for their style. I'll bet archers who shoot english longbows would consider your draw short, and japanese archers shooting a yumi might think the english style drea is short... It all depends on how you define "proper form". Also, some styles of bow do not lend themselves to 28 + draws ( primitive bows tend to only draw half their length, or so, before breaking or taking much set).

ken75 · « **Reply #4 on:** October 06, 2010, 11:41:01 pm »

the answer to this is pretty complex . first there are styles that do not lend themselves to 28 inches the bows arent designed to be drawn that way. some of these are the plains bows drawn to the chest with a pinch finger style release,another style similar would be bows meant to be shot out of canoes or other situations where a full draw to the cheek or ear would not be suitable. second there are styles like eastern woodlands , and european style bows that will be full draw be it 28 or 29 or 30 depending on the archer. one thing to remember with these bows if replicating museum pieces you have to adapt the length and draw for you the neolithic that built the bow more than likely wasnt your size. then there are the others turkish , chineese , english warbows those bows are designed for a different draw and release . in short a full draw on one style isnt the same as a full draw on another .there are some people that are deadly accurate with the floating anchor and i dont want them flinging arrows at me even if they dont touch their cheek and anchor

DCM4 · « **Reply #5 on:** October 07, 2010, 10:52:56 am »

"showing their bows at "full draw"...but they don't look like they are "

I agree it's fairly common, but nothing at all to do with the bow itself. I see it as frequently or more in glass bows. Folks is just different and what works for one may look crazy as the dickens to the next guy. I've learned some of these unorthodox hunched over, high elbow lookin' dudes can shoot yer lights out!

Pappy · « **Reply #6 on:** October 07, 2010, 11:51:44 am »

What David said.

The bows can be built for about any draw length provied you pay attention to length of bow,wood type and design of the bow. Then figure out what weight and draw you want and tiller for that.

Lots of different styles of shooting, You shoot what works for you.

Pappy

Stingray45 · « **Reply #7 on:** October 07, 2010, 12:29:46 pm »

I think it's just a case of drawing style. I know I didnt use to come to my full draw, I just recently adjust to where I'm getting to my full draw and I'm at 27-3/4" so I tiller everything to at least 28" but I usually try to get to 29" for those cases where you're a little excited in the woods and possibly overdraw a bit.

profsaffel · « **Reply #8 on:** October 07, 2010, 03:15:08 pm »

I'm kind of notorious for this "don't pull their bows back to full draw" phenomenon. Simply put, I guess I'm just not an "anchor at the corner of my mouth" kind of shooter. Maybe my aim suffers for it, but it's not a problem with bow design in my case.

George Tsoukalas · « **Reply #9 on:** October 07, 2010, 03:17:50 pm »

I helped a friend make an osage bow for his 33" draw. The bow should be designed around draw length, condition of the wood and species. Some people (like me) just like shooting long arrows. Jawge

snag · « **Reply #10 on:** October 07, 2010, 03:54:59 pm »

Interesting. Hadn't thought of bows being shot in "different styles". But I can see where that could be the case. Just look at some of the pictures of Ishi! Not what I would call "full draw". But I would imagine he could shoot really well with that style. I have been improving my shooting style this past couple of years by trying to get my back muscles more involved in the shot. I find that I draw an inch longer and actually anchor my first joint in my thumb in the depression where your jaw joint is. When I don't extend my draw and pull fully with my back muscles I am not as consistant or as accurate. Whatever works for you I guess.

Kegan · « **Reply #11 on:** October 07, 2010, 07:07:14 pm »

Some folks, as was stated, just shoot a shorter draw. No worries if it works for them. I tiller all my bows to my 29.5" draw at whatever weight I want (or can wind up with

).

Only time I short draw is when the hat gets in the way

snag · « **Reply #12 on:** October 07, 2010, 09:14:53 pm »

I've short drawn because of cold muscles or bushes getting in the way.... this just got me wondering about how to hit a draw weight when building a selfbow. How do you go about it? Do you start with a lot more wood than you need and whittle it down to the weight? I don't want to start out with a good stave and find out because I went with the standard measurements on the bow layout that at 28" or 29" draw I now have a 40# bow.

Pappy · « **Reply #13 on:** October 08, 2010, 07:07:45 am »

After you get it floor tillered,and long string tillered,in other words when you get it to brace[by the way I try and do that as soon as possiable] then I put it on the tillering board,I use the rope/ pulley system like many others on here. When you start to pull the bow,decide what draw you need and what weight you want,never go over that weight when pulling the bow,the first time you pull it may be something like 50@15 inches,you check out any problem with the bend and scrap there,you just keep adjusting the tiller while taking off wood,for example the next time it will be 50 at 16 inches.Just keep working with it as you move out on the draw length till you get the draw you want at the weight you decided.I usually go a few pounds over the weight I want to allow for shooting it in and final sanding. To answer your question,yes you start with more wood than you will wind up with in the end. I am always careful with set diminution's,a lot depends on the wood type
and density.So all wood is different.50 lb was just an example,you may want 40 or 60 it don't matter just don't go over that when you are tillering. That will help from damaging the wood and set.

Hope this helps. You might want to go to Jawges site,it has a lot on this.

Pappy

hillbilly61 · « **Reply #14 on:** October 08, 2010, 07:57:04 am »

1 Thing that is not being considered here, is that alot of the pics I see are the guys just pulling a little short of thier draw just to display the bow at draw. Not nessesarally "thier" draw length, but close enough to show off the bow. Just a thought.

Primitive Archer