Flax for Backing

[Ronbow]

I would like to back my next bow with flax and would appreciate any info on what type and where to find it. I am knew to bow building and this forum so, I apologize ahead of time for asking something that I am sure has already been covered. I am not 100% tied to using flax but it seems that is readily accepted as a great bow backing, is pretty economical, and a green horn might be able to work with it.

Any ideas, suggestions, links, or words of wisdom would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Ronbow

[George Tsoukalas]

I never used flax. I've used silk, linen and burlap on boards. They are fairly easy to install. Rawhide is good too but it is too much work for a board bow, Ron.  My site has info. Jawge
http://georgeandjoni.home.comcast.net/~georgeandjoni/

[Grunt]

I've used raw flax soaked in TB11. It's kind of messy to apply but it is strong. Linen canvas is easy to apply and it's also flax.

[macbow]

Ron your profile doesn't give a location. I have some flax that I don't plan to use. If interested I'd mail in the U.S. Providing I can find it.
Ron

[Ronbow]

Jawge. you are the man! Thanks, Great website. I think I will go with your suggestions. Am I reading it right, do you prefer silk over linen and burlap? I am thinking Salvation Army for a silk dress. I think it might be easier to identify silk by touch and tag, more so than linen. It looks like you use just one layer of backing. Is that correct? So Glue goes down and silk goes over. trim, let dry and then paint. Correct?

[George Tsoukalas]

Ron, I think linen would get the nod for strength, then burlap and then silk. BTW burlap will take a stain of Rit dissolved in alcohol nicely even when covered with glue. I can't figure out why LOL but it does. Jawge

[Ronbow]

Ok, so now I am thinking linen. I just hate to think of failure on a bow. I know it is coming but I want it to come when I am expecting it. (does that make sense). I will post a pic of the grain on the board I am trimming down, it is pretty good but I am thinking it would be wise to back it. I will post pics when I get it down to the basic shape and beg for opinions. Of course getting opinions early don't hurt either. lol

[Josh]

I broke my 2nd bow trying to brace it... It really made me sick to my stomach to hear the sickening crack as the top limb came off in my hand.  I realize what I did wrong afterwards.. I tried to brace it too early and I was bracing it wrong to begin with anyway.   I did all the wood removal with a block plane, side shape profile and floor tillering.  Didn't even have a work table yet, was working straddling the board on my garage floor.  I couldn't start my 3rd for like 2 weeks because I was scared I was gonna do the same thing to it.   But I wouldn't trade the experience for anything in the world.. I love crafting bows... I take a bunch of shortcuts now (and I am now the proud owner of my own workbench LOL) and I am glad I started the way that I did.  Don't be afraid to break them, it stinks but it is also part of the learning process.. Good luck to ya and welcome to the addiction, brother. 

[4est Trekker]

I've used raw, combed flax for a bow backing.  It's like sinew in many respect, except it doesn't dry into a considerable reflex.  I think it's superior to sinew because it's lighter, less prone to moisture absorption, and much easier and quicker to apply.  I've actually grown some flax for backing and strings, but it's long process to get it into a workable state. 

By the way, linen is the spun and woven form of flax, just as canvas is to cotton.

[Marc St Louis]

Flax, Linen, same thing.

Most people don't realize this but nearly all canvas these days is made of Cotton.  You have to read what it's made of before you buy it to be sure. 

I was told that by a woman who imports real linen canvas that you have to have to go to a specialty fabric store to get it and it's much more expensive.

Another thing is that a fabric like canvas has threads that go down the length of the bow but it also has threads that go across and those don't do anything for the bow but add weight.  You're better off to get a roll of linen thread and glue them down the length of the bow.  More work but it does a better job

[George Tsoukalas]

Flax is spun into linen cloth which will make you a good backing. I bought some from Jan Fabrics. Ron, use what you have. If  you have some burlap or silk  us it. Breaks are inevitable I still get them after 20+ years of making bows.  Choose your wood wisely to minimize breaks. Jawge

[Ronbow]

You are right Jawge, I am having a little problem at this point taking the time to keep searching for that more perfect piece of wood, and am so new that I tend to want to make real sure that I have taken every precaution. I am trying to hang on to everything that I am reading and not make the same mistakes that others have already outlined.

I am sure you have heard this all before but, just working my way through. I  am more of a visual kind of guy, do you have any good resourses for picking grains? I have checked your site and TBB 1 & 2, but just would love to see more pictures of the grains.

It really does just go on and on but man, do I love it. Wheels are turning and shavings burning

Thansk for the reply

[George Tsoukalas]

Ron, I don't have anymore pictures. But we can talk. The ideal is to have a straight grain from tip to tip. No knots. None. It will break at the tiniest knot.  I look at the edge grain. I allow 2 run outs per limb for a 50-55# bow. I almost never glue on a handle to a board. I let the handle bend. I leave the board 1.5 in wide for 50-55 # and rip it to 1 3/8 for 45-50#. Bow making is a wonderful activity. There comes a time when you have to put the knife to the wood. BTW on the topic of linen...in the 17th and 18 the century linsey woolsey was a popular fabric for clothing. It was made from linen and wool. I wonder where I could buy some of that. That'd make a great hunting shirt. Jawge

[wakosama]

I got lady's 100% linen pants at Goodwill for $4 a pair,also 100% linen sun dress.  Very nice, smooth, even fabric.   Overlapped the strips at the handle.  The bow failed because I overtillered one limb, but backing with TB3 glue worked great.

[Dane]

Wm. Booth Draper carries linsey woolsey. 55 linen, 45 wool. Great company, my dealings with them have been terrific.

Dane

Ron, I don't have anymore pictures. But we can talk. The ideal is to have a straight grain from tip to tip. No knots. None. It will break at the tiniest knot.  I look at the edge grain. I allow 2 run outs per limb for a 50-55# bow. I almost never glue on a handle to a board. I let the handle bend. I leave the board 1.5 in wide for 50-55 # and rip it to 1 3/8 for 45-50#. Bow making is a wonderful activity. There comes a time when you have to put the knife to the wood. BTW on the topic of linen...in the 17th and 18 the century linsey woolsey was a popular fabric for clothing. It was made from linen and wool. I wonder where I could buy some of that. That'd make a great hunting shirt. Jawge