Juniper Bow

[bowkee]

Well I got a Juniper Bow started got it tillered to 40@ 15 without Sinew.
I applied one Thick coarse of Hide glue soaked Sinew, let it dry a couple days then Applied a coating of TB2 glue.
After The TB2 dried I wrapped the tips with TB2 soaked Sinew.
I was trying to figure out how the plains bows got that bird wing shape, without Heat or steam bending I figured that would happen
Just from set if I did not let the Sinew cure for a couple weaks, Instead I would finish tillering after about 4 days and then after the limbs had set would let it cure.
Any response On this Theory?

[sonny]

there's a possibility that the sinew will pull free from the limbs if you stress it too soon...
but I'll leave that up to you.
 

[bowkee]

well That makes perfect sense

[Pat B]

I always let sinew cure completely before stressing it. For me, it is a month between courses and a month at the end of the process.

[loefflerchuck]

Plains indians used heat and steam bending.

[loefflerchuck]

I do love juniper and sinew though

[denny]

I was told by an old bowyer at age 72 years, That juniper is the same a yew. I know it is a fur tree similar to the pacific yew, what is your opinion, As i am looking at some on my front lawn, Thanks Denny

[bowkee]

I saw the pics of hamm heating and bending, thought it would work with this piece of juniper but it has a lot of memory i guess.
wish I had patience like  Pat  does.
as for yew and juniper being the same hmm pretty close exept Ive had better luck getting yew. Good Day.Phillip

[juniper junkie]

juniper responds very well to backing with sinew. I wouldnt put your second course on too soon, let the first dry a while. I also reverse-string to add a little reflex into the bow, as the sinew dries it will draw the bow limbs into reflex, but the reverse string helps this. Denny...juniper is closer to cedar than it is to yew. it is not very dense and is softer than yew. use mostly heartwood and leave only about 1/4" of sapwood. the sapwood has very little strength and takes set bad. from what I have made, juniper is best suited for wide flat limbs with sinew backing. I made a holmegard design that works awesome, after over 500 arrows it has taken no set. I backed it with two layers of sinew and had to reduce the weight twice as the sinew cured. pay attention to the tension part of the tree, this tends to be the best bow wood. look for branches with little or no knots on the upper side of the limb, or a leaning tree with the clean side under tension. good luck with the bow and post some pics... 

[bowkee]

Thanks for the extra tips Juniper, here is a couple pics, no to clear though.

[attachment deleted by admin]

[juniper junkie]

looking good. how long is the bow?

[Blacktail]

it looks like it might be under 50"...if so and 2 courses of sinew..man,its going to be a rocket launcher..john

[bowkee]

OOPS IT'S 47" tricky tips one goes east and one goes west, this wood has good memory

[bowkee]

Finally  got this bow finished, very temperamental, had to pike and re-nock to get it centered.
30#@20" 45"
The arrows are a variety of woods. the Noks I cut slits and then steamed and place wedges in to get them bulbous.
The Quiver I made with read and bamboo from found baskets.
Al in all most every thing is recycled except the  TB2 glue.

[attachment deleted by admin]

[El Destructo]

                                          Nice Job PK....like the recycling......Go Green...............