Tell me about nocking points

[Bikewer]

I had always assumed that you put your nocking point in place essentially parallel with the arrow rest, but I've seen a couple of sources talking about placing it higher than what would be parallel. 
I understand that the arrow rest is a bit "off center" to the bow itself, does that affect things?

[white wood]

for most of my bows i will nock them about a 1/2" higher than perfectly parallell. this will give you much better arrow flight. play around with how high you nock your arrows. if you go under center you will experience awkward arrow flight. the arrow rest holds your arrow and for most selfbows there not center shot. meaning your arrow has to be splined correctly for the arrow to bend around your handle and then straighten back out. play around with arrow splines and nocking points and you can zip arrows fast and straight through almost any bow. hope this helps, -jesse

[Justin Snyder]

I start with my knocking point at 23/64" above the arrow rest. WHY?  Because it will be at the top of the arrow. My arrows are 23/64" and that makes the arrow perpendicular to the back of the bow. It don't point up or down.  Justin

[tom sawyer]

A lot of people like to nock above where the arrow is perfectly perpendicular.  I think it is supposed to give the arrow some small amount of downward push, whcih is slightly more reproducible than if the arrow comes out completely straight (and can be thrown off in any direction).

The other  aspect of nocking point, has to do with limb timing.  It is a way to balance out slight irregularities in limb recovery.  Large difference usually require adjustment of one or both limbs.

Most people tune their nocking point.  Move it up or down slightly until you get the tightest vertical groups.  Ignore where it is relative to the arrow rest.

[NOMADIC PIRATE]

It's got to do with your shooting style too.

for some reason no matter what bow, Glass, wood, short, long, R/D, strait, snake, I get my nock 1/4" over the parallel top of the shaft, (therefore my arrow point sligthly downwards)...and pretty much that's it, if adjustment it's needed is very minor.

that's what works for me

[Coo-wah-chobee]

         lLike Manny 3/8" or 1/4" up...................bob

[Pat B]

I usually set my nock point at 1/4" above parrallel and nock my arrow on top of the nock point.  On some of the Eastern Woodland style bows I've made, I've used one of The Ferret's practices and used no nocking point at all and just go by feel. Actually, on every bow I make, I shoot them quite a few times with the tiller string and there is no nocking point on it.    Pat

[NOMADIC PIRATE]

me to Pat, I can tell by the angle off my arrow, and pretty much i'm spot on

[AndrewS]

I dont use a nocking point. After 50 -100 shoots on a new string you will see where you have to nock

[DBernier]

Don't mean to steel Bikewer's thread, but has anyone tried using a mechanical  release? I did to check arrow flight by eliminating one variable. It was interesting. 

Dick Bernier

[billmac]

What about shooting through paper?  Shouldn't that tell you whether to raise or lower the nocking point?

Also:  How do you mark your nocking point?

[George Tsoukalas]

I start about 1/8 inch above the bottom of the arrow and mark felt tip marker lines in 1/8 inch increments for about an inch and test to see where I get good arrow flight. Good arrow flight means you see nothing but feathers on the way to the target. Check out Selfbow Care and Tuning on my site. Jawge

[Badger]

Jawge has a good sound method for getting good arrow flight, I try to get my bows where they shoot good with my crimpon nock point about 3/8 over the bottom of my arrow shelf. This equates to about 1/32 high most of the time, sometimes I might have to go a 1/4" higher. Steve

[Justin Snyder]

I tear a 1/16" wide piece of red duct tape and put it on at my starting point.  I can move it up and down a little to adjust the nocking point.  It is difficult enough to move that it stays while shooting, but will move to allow for tuning.  I usually wind up about 1/16" higher, but I like to see it come in so I know I have the right spot.  Then I use a crimp on.  Justin

[tom sawyer]

I've been tying on nocking points using string (or dental floss works), put a dab of glue on it when its done.  If you tie it tight it will stay put, but can still be moved if you need to.  It is easier on my shooting glove than the crimp-ons.

Dick, I've never tried my release (left from my compound exploits).  It wouldn't mimic the hand placement of a Mediterranean release though, so I don't know what you'd learn other than how badly your introducing torque using fingers.