Robin Hood...ish, full draw pics, is it right?

[Frode]

Hi all,
I was asked if it was possible to make a wood "longbow" for a local Renaissance Faire this fall, to be used by someone portraying Robin Hood.  Money is an issue, so a genuine yew ELB is pretty much out of the question, but I'm wondering if a credible, good shooting model couldn't be made with a hickory sapwood backing, say hickory/maple, or is there a better combination?  I have access to some nearly quartersawn hickory sap wood with really straight grain, and I'd probably stain the belly wood, unless it was close to the desired color naturally.  I can't get a hold of any yew locally that is suitable (great for table tops, scary for bows).
Admittedly, this is theater, but the actor is an archer, and the bow does have to perform.
Your thoughts are greatly appreciated,
Frode

[LEGIONNAIRE]

hit the lumber yard, maybe hic backed ipe or jatoba although they may be kinda dark but theyll work. or maybe you can purchase an eastern red cedar stave since they arent as expensive as yew, and when finished they look pretty similar. just some thoughts. good luck frode.

[AncientArcher76]

Check out 3rivers warbow.  Real simple I think its made from red oak or hickory!  Either is a decent choice.  Go for it and make one!  You will feel good to have a bow u made.

AA

[Jay]

Just do a Hickory selfbow, no backing. simple, look good, cheep and they shoot great.
I make mine with self knocks too.The most expensive part will be the Flemish string.The Hickory takes on some set.... no big deal.

which ren-faiir?

[youngbowyer33]

hickory(sapwood) backed red oak(heartwood) perhaps?

[Dane]

Lemonwood with hickory backing. A guy in England, Richard Head, makes those kind of longbows, and they have a bit of the appearance of sapwood and heartwood yew the way he staines them.

Dane

[Inyati]

Here in England, a common cheaper alternative is Hickory backed Lemonwood (Dagame). They make great bows. Actually most reinactment bows are made from Lemonwood.

[csabac]

I think an ash or elm longbow would be more authentic for portraying Robin Hood. Not all english longbows were constructed of yew, and I believe that the bandits of Sherwood used some more readily available wood!

[ilcoalminer]

yes ash makes a good bow, the denser the better for a true performer but i went and cut a white ash from the woods it was about 3.5" in diameter, it took a little over two months to fully dry out but its 72" n2n 60# at 31" draw and took 2" of set.  its a good shooting bow and ash makes a very authentic elb.  i think elm was used alot as well.

[RyanY]

I saw a few sassafras bows at a primitive shoot that were similar to the coloring of yew with a light sapwood and dark heartwood. Plus its a light wood like yew so it really fills the hand.

[markinengland]

I saw pics of a "warbow" made from Poplar posted on here some time ago. It looked like a mighty warbow but pulled failry light but performed quite well for the draw weight. I think Badger (Steve Gardner) made it some time ago.
If you mask the back and give the belly a light wipe with stain it should look the part colour wise.

[Frode]

Thanks for all the suggestions and input everyone!  I think a trip to the lumberyard is in order tomorrow!
Frode

[Pat B]

How about mulberry. With a few rings of sapwood left on it will look very similar to yew. Hillbilly made one a few years ago that shoots very well. His son Cody was shooting it last weekend at the NC state shoot at Hickory. I made an osage ELB style bow with sapwood on it for a reenactment group to raffle off a few years ago. Another good shooting bow.
  Ash and elm were traditional bow woods during the Renaissance times but instead of the deep bellied ELB style bow they were more of a rounded rectangular cross section. 

[Frode]

How about mulberry. With a few rings of sapwood left on it will look very similar to yew. Hillbilly made one a few years ago that shoots very well...
I made an osage ELB style bow with sapwood on it for a reenactment group to raffle off a few years ago. Another good shooting bow.

Pat, you know, mulberry seems to grow around the Midwest like a weed.  I even have a couple on the back fence I haven't done anything about yet.  Seems to grow fast and straight, given half a chance, and makes for a good pie, too.  Hmmm.
Seems like all the osage instructions I've seen talk about getting rid of the bark and sap wood, and getting right down to chasing a ring.  So there's no drawback in leaving some sap wood on, then?  And, would the same ring chasing rules apply for the sapwood, as well?  I have a piece of osage that looks like it has a good four rings of sap wood on it still.
Frode

[Pat B]

Frode, It all depends on how the wood was handled right off the stump. The sapwood of either will work on a bow if the wood was cured properly and no rot got into the sapwood(heartwood of both is rot resistant but not the sapwood). I have made bows of both mulberry and osage with a few rings of sapwood left on the back, 50/50 heartwood/sapwood and all sapwood. The more sapwood the thicker the bow will be but it works fine.
  You will have to chase a ring with the sapwood also. You need a good clean back ring with sapwood just like with the heartwood.  Only leave 2 or 3 rings of sapwood on the back, depending on the thickness of each ring. About 1/4" to 3/8" of thickness will do fine. Generally the growth rings of mulberry are pretty thick so 1 or 2 might be all you need.