To Bend Or not Bend

[Little John]

Here is an osage character stave I have been working on and am about to the point of having to make some decisions. The piece of wood might not even be worth the trouble but it was a gift and I think there is a bow in there. It has about twenty knots, lots of roller coasters, and one major kink with twist. My goal is to make a character holmie out of it and to bend the straight limb to kindof match the kinked one and end up with about three inches of static reflex about 15" from the tips. It is 68" long and 2" wide for the working part of the limbs, I don't mind a bit of over build for durability with all the knots, roller coasters and all. I guess the question is whether to bend with steam,boil or dry heat? Or not at all. Thanks in advance Kenneth

[attachment deleted by admin]

[Pappy]

I would try and straighting it out some,how old is the wood ? If it is 2 years or older I would use dry heat,it will probably take several sessions ,but I have done some if not, almost that bad. With dry heat I have more control and more time to work with it.It is is fairly fresh wood I wood steam it first to get the worst out ,the dry heat from there,be sure to seal it good before steaming.Can't wait to see the out come.
   Pappy

[artcher1]

With those knots you want to consider steaming instead of dry heat for correcting those bends. Knots are hard, dense and most times brittle and will snap or raise splinters using dry heat, at least from my experience. If no major knots in the area to be bent then just heating is fine IMO.

Just apply your taper per design and go at it! ART

[Little John]

Thanks for the quick reply Pappy, your opinion is always valued. I think the wood was cut last fall so is probably less than 18 monthes old and not completly dry, I just got it reducd down to near bow dementions in the last few days. The crooked limb has a deflex-reflex profile so are you recomending to straighten both? If not it might get a lot of deflex. What exzactly do you mean about sealing before steaming? Has your weather straightened out any or still cold?    Kenneth

[Little John]

Art, thank you also for your reply. I know you are right about the knots being hard and brittle. Do you think it would be feasable to match the bends on the straight limb rather tham correct the crooked limb for more character and reflex? Looks like the string will hit the handle ok so ok on that axis. Still carrying your bamboosa elk hunting arrows and am sure to score one day with one of them,  thanks again for the arrows and advice.      Kenneth

[artcher1]

That would be one way to go Kenneth. For that length Osage it certainly would help to have it's mid-limbs stiffened. Looks like a fair piece of Osage there, I believe your odds of making a nice shooter are pretty good. Keep those arrows sharp, you never know! ART

[El Destructo]

Seal the whole Bow with Shellac to keep the Moisture in the Limbs and reduce the Possibilities of Dry Checking from the Steaming....straighten out the Twist and get the Limb aligned...either take out some of the reflex in the one Limb...or add some to the Other at this time....how many of them knots on the Edges of them Limbs have been violated?? Looks to me like a few of them were cut through for the Bows Lay Out...this could be a Major Catastrophe down the road if this is the case...a Backing may be in order if this is the Case..

[Little John]

Art, I guess you lost me on the part about having the mid limbs stiffened for this length of osage.

Mike, here are the pics of the knots on the edge. I guess I did not do the best job of avoiding them all.  I might be able to narrow the limbs a bit and get rid of them. What ya think.     Kenneth

[attachment deleted by admin]

[Pat B]

Kenneth, there is definitely a bow in that piece of osage. I would straighten it out, both up/down and left/right and then put reflex in the whole bow like Pappy does with his forms. It has been a long time since I steamed wood so for me it would be dry heat and oil. If you decide to steam, seal the area to be steamed with shellac. Shellac can take the heat and moisture where other sealants can't.
  All of the knots look to be well supported with extra wood except the last pic of the small knot. It might be OK, too. After straightening, a rawhide backing should reduce the pucker factor and IMO is worthwhile.

[Little John]

Pat I guess I am a bit slow but what does the IMO is worthwhile mean?  This piece of wood has about got me stumped, I am about ready to let it rest for awhile or study it for awhile and get going on a premium piece of well seasoned clear osage that I have.  Thanks for your advice as always.   Kenneth

[Pat B]

IMO = In My Opinion     When in doubt, step away and study it.  It will still be there tomorrow, next week or next month.
  Kenneth, you must be snowed in. We are getting flurries now.

[artcher1]

In my opinion (IMO) .

Kenneth, Osage is a pretty elastic wood and takes a great bend. Great for bows 64" and shorter IMO. Longer than that and you wind up with longer elastic limbs, which deform more so than other woods at mid-limb. A little r/d here helps I believe. Maybe someone with more knowledge on the subject could elaborate more on the subject . ART

[Little John]

Oh now the IMO makes sense.  Oh well I will probably keep plugging along on it and see what I get. What I had in mind is not what others see in the stave. I kindof wanted to keep the snakes for character but maybe it is not to be. Art, what do you mean by will deform more at mid limb? I just left the limbs a bit long and wide for insurance but could still reduce either or both.We have had three good snow storms but are plowed out good and all the roads are clear, lots of snow in the fields and ditches. Hard to get real excited about any thig with the cold and wind and all.     Kenneth

[Pat B]

Kenneth, one thing I learned that made my bow building more successful is to let the wood tell me what it wants to be and not try to tell the wood what I want it to be...and especially with character wood. A good clear straight grained stave can be made into almost any style but with character wood you have to go with the flow.

[George Tsoukalas]

Don't set out with a design in mind. Just make a bow letting the wood decide what it what it wants to be. Leave extra wood around the knotted areas. I'd straighten out that horrendously reflexed limb. I'd leave the limbs straight fearing the extra stress a reflexed stave would create. Jawge