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Author Topic: Bow Finish  (Read 13589 times)

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Offline Artus

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Bow Finish
« on: December 15, 2009, 03:24:09 pm »
Hey guys!
IŽm from Austria and right now iŽm in the states. And I was looking for some Bow finish. My first choice was Tru Oil, but I couldnt find any. But I found some Rub On Polyurethan from Miniwax is that good? What finishes do you use?

Thanks
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Offline Pat B

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Re: Bow Finish
« Reply #1 on: December 15, 2009, 03:26:16 pm »
Find a gun shop or sporting goods store for Tru Oil. Any good wood finish should work well for bows.
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Offline Artus

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Re: Bow Finish
« Reply #2 on: December 15, 2009, 03:27:57 pm »
Thanks! IŽll keep my eyes opened. What finish would be similar to Tru Oil, just in case I canŽt find any?
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Offline Pat B

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Re: Bow Finish
« Reply #3 on: December 15, 2009, 03:39:37 pm »
Tru-Oil is a linseed oil finish with additives to promote quick drying. You may be able to make a similar finish with boiled linseed oil and Japan dryer; a oil painting quick dry additive.  Some folks use tung oil with pretty good results too. 
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Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!    Pat Brennan  Brevard, NC

Offline The Gopher

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Re: Bow Finish
« Reply #4 on: December 15, 2009, 03:47:19 pm »
I get my Tru-Oil at Wal-mart
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Offline Artus

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Re: Bow Finish
« Reply #5 on: December 15, 2009, 03:52:22 pm »
Allright could be an alternative. What about that Miniwax rub on stuff? Here is the Link:
http://www.minwax.com/products/oil_based_clear_protective_finishes/wipe_on_poly.html
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Offline M-P

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Re: Bow Finish
« Reply #6 on: December 15, 2009, 06:39:05 pm »
I've used a marine varnish in the past, with good results,  TruOil has done well for me, too.  Currently I've gotten lazy and use Jascoź Tung oil, because it is locally available.  All work well for me, though the Tung oil has the least resin type additives and thus takes more coats to build the finish I like.  I think most tung and linseed oils already have japan driers added---- read the label before buying.   A "boiled" or 'quick drying' oil will have the driers already, as will any commercial varnish.   (A varnish is just drying oil with some sort of resin dissolved into it.)
Ron
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Offline Artus

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Re: Bow Finish
« Reply #7 on: December 15, 2009, 06:49:12 pm »
Ok! Thank you! But hasnŽt anybody made any expirience with this minwax rub-on stuff? Seems to be interesting...
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Offline fusizoli

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Re: Bow Finish
« Reply #8 on: December 15, 2009, 07:50:47 pm »
I dont know that one but all urethan  is ok. Bit slower drying as the acryl but have nice surface and protect well. With steel wool should work down the surface matt and very fine. Put some more solvent in and it will easyer to brush.
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Offline Artus

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Re: Bow Finish
« Reply #9 on: December 15, 2009, 11:12:42 pm »
Thanks!
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Offline Okie

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Re: Bow Finish
« Reply #10 on: December 16, 2009, 12:33:52 am »
I've used the rub on minwax poly. I works pretty good. I used the glossy then had to go over it with 0000 steel wool to take off the shine. I really like Tru-Oil the best. If you use the rub on, put on light coats or it will run on ya.
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Offline Bowmonk

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Re: Bow Finish
« Reply #11 on: December 16, 2009, 04:53:11 am »
Go for the Tru Oil if you can find it... the time you save between coats in prep will be worth the efforts for finding the Tru Oil. Another thing i have noticed about poly of about any type or brand... it has a tendency to yellow (a lot) with age, and is to me more of a surface finish than one that will penetrate. Rub on poly is usually just a more thinned down version of polyurethane varnish, so maybe it would penetrate a little more, but in the end I have to hang my hat on Tru Oil or tung oil. Actually I believe that Tru Oil is a mix of both boiled linseed, and tung oil with some added drying catalysts.

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Offline kiwijim

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Re: Bow Finish
« Reply #12 on: December 16, 2009, 05:46:47 am »
I prefer tru oil too.
I have made similar finishes, but they do not dry as fast as tru-oil; I can't figure out the catalyst they use and they keep that information under wraps!
The problem with most boiled linseed oil is that it is not boiled, it is cheaper for the manufactorers to add dryers instead.
I make my finishes by heating the linseed oil in the microwave until it darkens in colour. That is usually about 4-5minutes for about 300mls. It will not boil unless you put in boiling chips. The boiling is unneccessary anyway, what you want is high temperature and the corresponding colour change in the oil, and of course, an understanding wife;D, because it stinks when you cook it.
A recipe I have used with good results is:
60% Boiled Linseed oil
20% Tung oil
15% Spar varrnish
5% vegetable turps
I mix all these ingredients together when cold and then add another (about) 4% terbebine by volume to the mix (you can by this at paint shops)
The results is a good, durable and lusterous finish which is easially repaired. It does take time to dry though; at least 24 hours for the 1st coat and 12 hours for each corresponding coat. Mix it up in small volumes because it will harden in the jar after about 2 years
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Offline fusizoli

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Re: Bow Finish
« Reply #13 on: December 16, 2009, 07:00:54 am »
Good to know what is this tru oil, allways read about and tought is a special thing. Now I know I have all component on the shelf :)

All art shop or paint shop could by sicative to fastening dry of the oil colors. For a 100ml oil approx a coffe spoon enough to fasten drying.
« Last Edit: December 16, 2009, 07:07:58 am by fusizoli »
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Offline Artus

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Re: Bow Finish
« Reply #14 on: December 16, 2009, 11:35:29 am »
Ok! So IŽll try to find an armstore.
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