Author Topic: red oak holmegaard  (Read 19838 times)

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radius

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Re: red oak holmegaard
« Reply #30 on: November 24, 2009, 02:05:59 pm »
i made a couple of red oak bows when i was first starting, super light light light kids' bows, but long.  i used a countersink bit to go into the handle maybe 3/8", then filled it with a plug of teak wood:  this was the arrow pass.  that's where it broke. 


Offline bootboy

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Re: red oak holmegaard
« Reply #31 on: November 24, 2009, 02:49:57 pm »
I'm starting to think along the lines of the suggested bone plate, and I had the idea of the take down possibility rolling around too
Oh man I had my very first tillered bow Go on me about 5 years ago, I made it 3 1/2" wide 6' long tapering to 5/8" it had about 5 coats of sinew. I marked the thickness as I imagined, and I didn't bother to tiller it correctly, I thought that tillering was not the the removal of wood fromeither limbs, to bend symmetrically, rather to exercises into doing it. I don't know how i took that from read Jim hamms original book. Anyways it must have been about 140lbs @28" then it snapped cracking the sinew and nearly knocking me out.
 I wish I had photos. :P
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Shadow Walker

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Re: red oak holmegaard
« Reply #32 on: November 24, 2009, 03:04:17 pm »
At least with the bone plate, you can add some reassurance and it doesn't have to be as thick as adding wood.

Offline bootboy

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Re: red oak holmegaard
« Reply #33 on: November 24, 2009, 03:39:20 pm »
I've seen the bone plate on the side of the handle as well, but im assuming that the plate should in this case go on the back??
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VenomBOWslinger

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Re: red oak holmegaard
« Reply #34 on: November 24, 2009, 03:49:40 pm »
Excuse my language but GOD DAMN 140lbs at 28 inches is a bit nuts....why u pull it that far at that weight?  Lucky u didnt get seriously hurt.  U want to tiller slow and get it to a feasable weight before get even trying to pull 28 inches u can almost split an atom doing that..better be careful!

Shadow Walker

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Re: red oak holmegaard
« Reply #35 on: November 24, 2009, 03:55:51 pm »
I'de try to go with a plate on the back and the belly. That knot in the handle is at a relly bad spot! I'de be tempted to wrap it as well. That bow is very nicely shaped and it would be a shame to lose it.
Always better to be safe than sorry!
Side plates are another option. They are common on asian bows that are spliced at the handles, and some of those bows are very high poundage.

Offline bootboy

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Re: red oak holmegaard
« Reply #36 on: November 24, 2009, 04:13:11 pm »
HAHAHA no no that estimated 140lbs @28" bow was my first Bow ever, I had no scale to measure.  But it it took all my strength to pull it to 28" while knealling on the basement floor and Im by no means a dainty fella.
Since then i have learned that slow tillering by removing wood is the way to do it hahahaha. Like I said at the time. I had the idea that, that was it, once you have the set measurement the bow should bend exactly the way you want, but you would need to leave it strung. I think I got the idea from mixed some roughly skimmed through jim hamm book and robert hardy's longbow book where he mentioned leaving his ELB strung to excersize the limbs or something to that effect. Looking back on it, it seemed quite brainless. But I really didnt know anything about wood then.
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Offline OldBow

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Re: red oak holmegaard
« Reply #37 on: November 29, 2009, 10:47:27 pm »
full draw?
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Offline bootboy

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Re: red oak holmegaard
« Reply #38 on: November 30, 2009, 03:54:20 am »
waitting to have the camera fixed
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Offline denny

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Re: red oak holmegaard
« Reply #39 on: November 30, 2009, 07:33:47 pm »
I really like the job you did. of course I wouldn't used a window as I like things to look real old fashion. I just built one out of boo and hickory, the dimensions weren't as good as my hickory needed trimmed.  good luck Denny

Offline bootboy

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Re: red oak holmegaard
« Reply #40 on: December 10, 2009, 10:14:36 pm »
ok so the camera is fixed and the handle is reenforced. I first used bone though the bone was from a baked bone dog chew and was brittle and had stress cracks. Thusly it broke during sanding. I switched to elk antler. and the result.

[attachment deleted by admin]
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Offline bootboy

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Re: red oak holmegaard
« Reply #41 on: December 10, 2009, 10:17:43 pm »
Soon I'll resinew the area thats been sanded off.
 My question is what do you all think. Its be glued on with simple yellow carpenters glue , and then filled with hide glue and antler dust and sanded flush.
Should i tie a band of sinew on it.?
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Offline El Destructo

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Re: red oak holmegaard
« Reply #42 on: December 10, 2009, 10:46:24 pm »
                           That Arrow rest is SCARY!!!  I like the Bow...but the rest makes my Butt Pucker............ :o
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Offline bootboy

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Re: red oak holmegaard
« Reply #43 on: December 11, 2009, 12:34:16 am »
HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA! Bum pucker!
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Offline adb

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Re: red oak holmegaard
« Reply #44 on: December 11, 2009, 12:35:33 am »
I'm also wondering... why did you cut that terrible arrow pass in the middle of the grip?? Where are you planning on putting your hand?