Please show me your glue up methods/forms/etc...

[Jesse]

Other woods will work for backing. You just need to match the belly wood to the backing or vise verse. The best combo to me is bamboo backed ipe or osage but it would be pretty boring if that's all anyone used.  Strong tension backing goes on high compression strength belly wood and lower compression strength belly wood needs a backing that wont overpower it. Also straight grain is important on the back and desirable on the belly as well. Iv'e seen ash and maple used as backings as well as other woods. 

[Justin Snyder]

For backing grain orientation you need to read George's site. http://georgeandjoni.home.comcast.net/~georgeandjoni/archer.html
I like purpleheart but not yellowheart under boo. Like Jesse said, lots of woods can be used for backings and or bellies, you just have to match them.

I am still waiting to see pictures of your forms you used for your FG bows. 

[Hornseeker]

Here's a pic I have handy of a kids bow form... my other is similar but is only 1 limb....

[Kent D.]

All depends on the kind of bow Im making.  I just have one pic of a bow in any kiind of form.  This is a laminated bow that is made with mulitple glue ups.  This is of the back and core getting glued together and put in a form made from one 2"x4" with 2"x4" pieces on the end holding the limb tips and 3/4"X3/4" in the center.

[Hornseeker]

Cool...that is a simple and highly adjustable form! So easy to play with differences in reflex and deflex! I wish it was that easy with the glass bows...

[Wolgen]

As for hickory backing, you can use flat sawn. Look for a really straight-grain board(and no knots) and follow the grain while bandsawing strips. Stay away from any heartwood(darker colour, vs white) when it comes to hickory. Make it 1/8"  thick and belt sand flat/smooth. I have a coupla hickory d/r bows done this way and working on a third now. After working with bamboo a bit, I'm leaning towards hickory for the ease of use.

[Kent D.]

Cool...that is a simple and highly adjustable form! So easy to play with differences in reflex and deflex! I wish it was that easy with the glass bows...

Not meaning to be ugly, but glass bows are a piece of cake.  The tiller is almost null.  Once  you get into the all organic, you will need to work on the tillering aspect.  Both side and belly.  Glass prevents the need to read wood grain.  Ive made glass bows with the worse grain you could get.  I do like glass bows in the sense you can put some beautifyl wood under glass.  I have not made one in a looooonnngg time, but they can show some beautiful wood, that cant even be considered for an all organic bow.  The form I posted a pic of is about as simple as  you can get for lam bows.  And as you said, it is real easy to adjust the amount of reflex and deflex. 

[Hornseeker]

There's no doubt about that Kent... I was not saying the wood bows are easier...I was saying that that form is easier to adjust d/r on  than on my glass bow forms... I am looking forward to playing with tiller on the organics!

[Kent D.]

There's no doubt about that Kent... I was not saying the wood bows are easier...I was saying that that form is easier to adjust d/r on  than on my glass bow forms... I am looking forward to playing with tiller on the organics!

Sorry about the assumption.  You are absolutly right.  Once you have a glass form cut out, thats about it.