Introducing myself with some questions.

[Nicholas]

This is my fourth attempt to post this topic, after the site immediately (and falsely) told me that I wasn't registered, erasing 15 minutes of writing.  Administrators, please note.

-----

Hello, all:

   My name is Nicholas, and I am an "aspirant" (for lack of a better term) living in Austin, Texas.  I plan to begin making a bow within the year, chiefly as a hunting weapon.  However, there are a couple of questions I have that are not being asked, much less answered, anywhere, and perhaps I could start off by posing them here:

      a) How much draw weight is "too much bow"?  Can a too-strong weapon be damaging to one's prey, like a too-powerful bullet fired from a gun?  If so, can you recommend any guidelines?

      b) is there any quantifiable, calculable relationship between a bow's length, its strung length, and its brace height?  In planning, I find that I could use this information, in order to know how long to make the bow, and/or the string.

   These two relatively obscure, frustrating riddles are the last obstacles to my being able to just start drawing my bow(s) up.   Then, I can happily chat about woods, shapes, shooting, and so on.

   Thanks in advance.

                                                                                                            Nicholas

[ravenbeak]

i'll pitch my 2 cents into the pot for what it's worth.

as far as the draw weight is concerned,  it is my belief that higher draw weights do offer advantages,  being said.  The optimum weight is that which can be drawn comfortably and ACCURATELY.  once the weight reaches too high accuracy will be sacrificed,  and that weight is now too high.    As archers,  shot placement is of absolute importance,  we are aiming for a small area of the vitals,  being said,  we also want enough power and sharpness of the arrow for an exit wound while hunting.   Otherwise the arrow tends to plug the entrance hole and blood trails are greatly diminshed.

As for draw length you will hear different things,  some of which depends on whether or not the bow bends through the handle.  generally for a first bow,  i'd say 68 inches tip to tip for a 28 inch draw is reasonable.

as for brace height,  the string should be approx 2 inches shorter than the length of the bow,  and when strung about 6-7 inches measured from the string to the back of the bow,  the string can be twisted and therefore shortened to increase brace height.

hope this helps and is worth 2 pennies,

Jamie

[cowboy]

Welcome aboard Nicholas and sorry you had trouble posting. I'm in the Austin area myself and am staying in Round Rock. Best thing to do is not worry about precise bow length's, draw weight's, dimension's and just build a bow that you can shoot comfortably. You'll be surprised how happy you are that your first bow actually sends an arrow down range. Then you can plan a little better on your next one, and you'll be impressed once more. All things come with time and a little experience and help you'll most likely answer those question's yourself .
 Listen to Jamie: You don't want to build a bow so powerfull that you diminish accuracy. A good standard bow would probably be around 68" long (depending on your wood of choice) and in the neighborhood of 50 pounds or less at your draw length.
  Just get a piece of wood, ask question's on here, and get busy - no quantam physics necessary .

[Nicholas]

My thanks to you both.  I guess that my draw weight/striking power question is beside the point; I *do* already understand the need for a manageable weight.  And that "2 inches less" guideline for the string's length will do fine.

In truth, i have more than one bow idea, and the first one was closer to cowboy's: a 68"-69" longbow (probably a Sudbury type), with an under-50 draw weight.  But a later design could be somewhat different......

[burn em up chuck]

welcome,build it and they will come. many, many more bows will fallow. i don't think i could add anymore than whats already been said.

                                                                                  chuck

[Pat B]

The killing power of a bullet and the killing power of a broadhead are totally two different things. A bullet kills by causing severe shock trauma to the tissue around the wound and a broadhead, no matter how fast it is traveling, will cause a cutting trauma but with very little damage to the surrounding tissue. It kills primarily with hemorrhaging(bleeding).
   If you get a pass through with an arrow, it doesn't matter if it is going 130fps or 400fps, it is still a pass through. Accurate shooting under hunting conditions and razor sharp broadheads are more important to a hunter than how heavy his bow is or how fast it shoots.
   If you are making your first attempt at a wood bow, take the time and learn proper tillering. Once you have that worked out, you can decide the bow that best suits you under the conditions you will be shooting. Ideally you want to shoot the heaviest bow you can comfortably shoot and accurately handle under the conditions you will be using it.
    If you plan to shoot 3D and targets you will probably be able to shoot a heavier bow. Under hunting conditions with considerations for weather conditions and being able to get a clean shot off at a live animal and feeling comfortable with taking a life your comfortable draw weight will be less. In many states, 35# to 40# is the minimum draw weight for hunting deer size animals and in some states elk.
  Accurate shooting and scary sharp broadheads are the most important aspects to the hunting archer.

[Nicholas]

In many states, 35# to 40# is the minimum draw weight for hunting deer size animals and in some states elk.

That, I knew.  I did some heavy-duty research into hunting regulations, state-by-state, and found that 40# was the most common "minimum," and a few used 35#.  The major exception was Alaska, which had a minimum of 50# for the very largest prey, while 40# was fine for everything else.  That was part of how I got worried about, "too much bow."

[Pat B]

I think the only way a bow could be too strong is if you couldn't shoot it comfortable and accurately. It has nothing to do with its effects down range.

[sailordad]

i can pull a 70lb compound with very little trouble when target shooting(not that i still use it),only hinted one season with it at that draw weight and fond after sitting in the cold all day and then trying to draw a 70lb bow was quit difficult
but when i hunt now, i prefer a 50-55lb bow
target shooting i like a 35lb bow
like everyone else has said,shoot what you can shoot accuratly and comfortably,after all it is all about shot placement

[Nicholas]

i can pull a 70lb compound with very little trouble when target shooting(not that i still use it),only hinted one season with it at that draw weight and fond after sitting in the cold all day and then trying to draw a 70lb bow was quit difficult

I believe you: when I was in my mid-teens, I got to look at a 70-lb. longbow, once owned by my great-uncle Bill.  Despite being in reasonable shape, I couldn't even get it to full draw!  That was another reason that I worry about excessive draw weight.

[Parnell]

Hello Nicholas,

I've been at it for about 6 months and have made several hunting capable bows and my arrows are getting there, now.  My two cents would be to just get started.  Planning is good but it is the experience that will draw you in and teach you.  I had to break about 5-6 bows to really start 'gettin it', so go with something cheap and simple a red oak board, maybe.  The more bows I make and more practice I get, the more accurately I can shoot a higher weight bow.  When I started in January, shooting a 45# bow provided plenty of challenge.  After six months of shooting traditionally, 60# is comfortable. 

I wish I didn't wait 4 months to get and devour The Traditional Bowyer's Bible Volume 1.

I really recommend learning to make your own flemish bowstring early on.  Bow to bow, I've found bracing needs vary some and being able to adjust the brace height by simply adding more twist to the string is great and way cheaper than constantly buying them.  It doesn't take long to tap some nails into a board and make a flemish string jig.

I hope you have fun and enjoy it.  Good luck!

Parnell

[Nicholas]

Hello Nicholas,

I've been at it for about 6 months and have made several hunting capable bows and my arrows are getting there, now.  My two cents would be to just get started.  Planning is good but it is the experience that will draw you in and teach you.  I had to break about 5-6 bows to really start 'gettin it', so go with something cheap and simple a red oak board, maybe.

I've got plenty of options for wood, where I am.  I've found at least 24 legitimate bow woods among native species, alone, to say nothing of exotics.

I'm thinking that ash might be a good place to start; we've got at least 2 kinds available.

The more bows I make and more practice I get, the more accurately I can shoot a higher weight bow.  When I started in January, shooting a 45# bow provided plenty of challenge.  After six months of shooting traditionally, 60# is comfortable.

Now THAT'S encouraging.  Since I wasn't plannign on getting a bow heavier then 50#, in the long run, I should be fine.

 

I wish I didn't wait 4 months to get and devour The Traditional Bowyer's Bible Volume 1.

I can pick up the first 3 volumes at my local library, but the downside is, I only have them temporarily! 

I really recommend learning to make your own flemish bowstring early on.  Bow to bow, I've found bracing needs vary some and being able to adjust the brace height by simply adding more twist to the string is great and way cheaper than constantly buying them.  It doesn't take long to tap some nails into a board and make a flemish string jig.

I actually feel a lot less nervous about making strings, than I do about making bows.  I've already discovered that I may have a small talent for cordage, and after reading the article in TBB2, I grasped the principles of string-making pretty quick.