Author Topic: arrow jig  (Read 2847 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline chessieboy

  • Member
  • Posts: 184
arrow jig
« on: April 21, 2009, 10:38:46 am »
I've read about running a shaft through a hole in a piece of metal with a drill.  The problem I'm having is getting thin spots as some points.  I have 11/32 shafts I'm getting them down to 5/16.  Any tips?  I have a guide in front and behind the hole for a guide and keep the shaft from swinging around.

Offline IONIAN

  • Member
  • Posts: 45
Re: arrow jig
« Reply #1 on: April 26, 2009, 01:50:39 am »
  I just made this one and it's a keeper!



  It sounds like you are not using even pressure when you push the shaft through.
"aim small, miss small"

Offline boo

  • Member
  • Posts: 343
Re: arrow jig
« Reply #2 on: April 26, 2009, 09:59:59 am »
Ionian, that is fantastic. We made one a few years ago like yours, it works perfect. need to break it out and make some more. boo
Boo

Offline beardedhorse

  • Member
  • Posts: 13
Re: arrow jig
« Reply #3 on: April 26, 2009, 10:50:11 pm »
You may be getting thin spots where the shaft is bending near the center.  Also, there are terms  for the grain configuration called rift and reed.  The rift is the layered grain that appears as lines and is stiffer and harder.  this is where you usually glue or attach the cock feather of your arrow.  A different jig feeds the stock into a series of blades like a three bladed pencil sharpener.  This is how broom handle turning lathes are designed and the three blades exert equal pressure on the shaft and there is less likelihood for variation in your diameter.  Why not just buy 5/16th diameter dowelling instead of turning down a larger diameter dowel?   

Offline stickbender

  • Member
  • Posts: 3,828
Re: arrow jig
« Reply #4 on: April 29, 2009, 01:31:07 am »

     Ok, Ionian, how about some design specs......? ;D  That is cool. ;)

                                                                    Wayne