New Bowyer Here, Have a Question

[Tracker]

Hi Folks, I am new to this site, and new to bowmaking. I live in N.E. Texas, and my intrest in bows was peaked at the Advanced Standard Tracker class, NJ. So far my resources are the books Making Bows and Arrows...The Old Way, by Douglas Spotted Eagle. And Bows & Arrows of the Native Americans, by Jim Hamm. That is my introduction. My question, I am not sure it can be answered since you cannot see the bow. I started a Red Cedar self bow a couple of weeks ago, my first. 57 1/2", 1 1/8" wide at handle, 2" wide limbs, 5/8" thick, ears 1" wide. Of course, because of the dips and valleys in the back, it is thinner in some places than others, especially on the edges. So here is my problem: it looks so thin, but yet I cannot pull it enough to string it so the string will not touch the handle. Is the wood actually stronger than it looks, should I just go ahead and pull harder? or should I tiller it on down 'till I can pull it fairly easy, no matter how thin it gets? Or would it help to take some off of the width of the limbs? Would appreciate any comments or ideas. Thanks.

Oh, also, this cedar was only cut a couple of months ago. I know, not seasoned, but since some work green wood, I figured I might as well learn all I can, and if it breaks, it breaks. Probably learn more that way anyway. 'Sides, it was all I had at the time.
Tracker

[George Tsoukalas]

I think pics would be help. But it sounds like you have a roller coaster stave. That is the back dips up and down. Basically, when the back dips down so should the belly so there are really no thin spots. There's info on my site. Jawge
http://georgeandjoni.home.comcast.net/~georgeandjoni/

[Tracker]

Thanks, George, I have your site in my files now, you have some super good stuff on there. I will see about posting some pics.

Tracker

[Pat B]

Welcome Tracker.    Like George said, the belly has to follow the back. The thickness of the limb should have a gradual but even taper from fades to tips, following the ups and downs.  You can remove width to reduce weight.
The bow length you have chosen is doable but a difficult length to begin bow building with. A longer bow would be more forgiving.  Working with green wood is OK as long as you don't stress the wood. You can take a fresh green stave to floor tiller stage with each limb moving about 4" without stressing it. Then you have to wait for the M/C to acclimatise  before you stress the limbs but even then, depending on the humidity of your area you have to be careful not to over stress the limbs. The problem isn't breaking a green limb but severely bending it and damaging the soft, uncured wood cells.
   Be ready to break a bow or 2. That will help you learn the specifics about wood in general as well as individual species.  Not saying you have to break bows before you learn how to build them but a lot can be learned from a broken bow.    Pat

[Shooter_G22]

Tracker,

   Welcome to the best Bow site in the world....    The Gentlemen here are in a class of there own...  they will be here to help and guid you through your journey into this addicting world of bow making and prepare yourself to learn a limitless amount of knowledge in a short peroid of time...   i found this place just a few months back and my membrain is overwhelmed with knowledge,  its hard to consume it all...   its truely a blessing to have this site available...  and to have the worlds best bow makers at your fingertips....   these boweres are eager to help and have soo much to offer a beginer and novioce bower...  you are truely amoungst some of the finest bow makers in the world now...  

   my advice is to ask alot of questions,   the more the better and dont be shy or figure its a silly question if your in doubt or not clear on something.. ask...  and i garaunty it will be answered and clearified...   the best way to get a full understanding is to show pics...  lots and lots of pics...  i use just my camera phone to take pics soo mine dont come out to clear but any pic is better than no pic soo take pics and post them up and you will get even better advice and guidance....

good luck...   stay motovated... 

also im in Dallas Tx     what part of NE Texas are  you in???

[PeteC]

Hey Tracker,glad to have you join this site.Where in east Texas do you live? I'm near Whitehouse, about 10 miles from Tyler.If I can help you let me know.By the way,as your tillering your bow,never draw it past your intended target weight.That's especially true with eastern red cedar,because when it goes off,it really goes off!Make sure you've removed enough wood that it'll bend a little more than you need,(and stay at, or below target weight), to put the long string on.  God Bless

[Tracker]

Wow! Thanks for all of the advice, folks! Sure is great to have a place where people are interested in tradisional ways. I'll start trying to work the belly to match the back. I thought the belly should be flat. Yeah, I figure I will probably break a few. I'll also try sliming the limbs a little, Pat. The length, it is my drawlength doubled plus 10%. Probably need to just chunk the books 'till I have made about ten bows. I have tried to post a pic, don't know that it went, if it does not show up I will try some other way. So gonna go rasp a little while I got time. Oh, I am 'bout 40 miles N. of Tyler. (Also, I am interested in arrows, knapping, atlatl, and all other old skills, from tracking to pottery) Will keep you posted on progress, thanks again so much!

[Okie]

Tracker, I've built one cedar bow and it shot good up until it 'ploded!! Be careful, when it dries out it may go on ya and it could put an eye out.

John

[Tracker]

Here is the bow, can't tell to much about it though.

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[Tracker]

Yippee! the pic posted! Thanks Okie, I'll be careful, it does seem kinda brittle.

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[Tracker]

Here is the handle, I thinned down the fade out a little, but not enough to hinge, hopefuly.

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[PeteC]

Okie's right Tracker,be careful with the cedar.I had one blow into thirds,with no warning,and it was well tillered.We've got too much excellent bow wood around east Texas anyway.  God Bless

[GregB]

Tracker, I wouldn't totally forget about some reading...the Bowyer's Bible Vol. 1 is a great read for the beginning bowyer.  Do you have a tillering tree yet? It's very helpful, and not that difficult to make. I have a portable one that comes in handy.

[CutNShoot]

I would back it with linen or cotton. I've blown two without it. That advice came from Tim Baker I now wish I had listened.

[Tracker]

Okay, thanks, I will wear safety glasses when I shoot  I have slimmed down the width of the limbs and it is giveing a little better. However is is also starting to follow the string a little, so I have hung it up to season for a while longer. I have not done any reading on cotton, silk or linen backing, only sinew, leather, wood and such. I have not yet made a tillering tree, will do that while it is seasoning. I made a real nice shaving bench, it works great, have done all the work on that. I will see about getting the 1st Bowyer's Bible, have heard that it is real good. I am looking for another sappling now, different wood, would like to find a nice Osage, would Hickory be better for a beginner?
Thanks folks, you're great!