Arrow questions

[Jacob1]

I want to get into heavy bows so will be needing arrows I found a place called Fairview which sells war arrow kits but shipping to the United States is insane about 65$ so my question is is this still a somewhat decent price and if not where else can I get them ?

[WillS]

Don't make the classic beginner mistake and assume that because you're getting into heavy bows you suddenly need huge arrows. 

If you're around 80-100lb, which is probably where you're starting your climb, you should still be using 11/32 shafts, or possibly one size up.  Everybody jumps straight to 3/8 or even 1/2" arrows when they see the triple figures but it's ludicrous and entirely unnecessary.  11/32 birch and pine can spine at 70 or 80lb, which will shoot properly from 80lb or 90lb bows.  The next size up will suit 100lb and then you can be looking at 3/8 which will safely and correctly shoot from bows up to about 120lb.

It's that tricky transition from 120lb to 130lb where you start needing a 1/2" arrow, but only with a very dramatic taper so that the nock end is still in the 11/32 range of diameters.  The 1/2" to 3/8" straight taper arrow is for HUGE bows - 160lb plus.  The number of times I've had people order 1/2" to 3/8" arrows only to find out they're shooting a 100lb bow is incredible.

The reason for me saying all this is that if you're already shooting, your current arrowshaft supplier will have stuff available for bows up to 100lb.  High spine 11/32 shafts are usually in every major archery store without the need to start importing specific "war arrows" and components. 

[Jacob1]

Wow I didn’t realize that they were 1/2 inch what sort of draw weight would be needed without a large taper ?  And do you have any recommendations for arrows suitable for 70-90 pound draw ?

[Del the cat]

... And do you have any recommendations for arrows suitable for 70-90 pound draw ?

WillS recommended suiatble arrows in the previous answer!
Buy shafts, fletchings and points and assemble your own arrows.
At 70-90# 1/32" shafts are fine, as heavy a spine (stiffness) as you can find.
Points anything over 100grain is fine.
Flights pretty much whatever takes your fancy.
If you want a medieval look, but at a suitable size and weight that will still fly a decent distance use a 3/8" shaft (of a light timber) 5" fletchings and a "modkin" style point (a modern turned point that is shaped a bit like a medieval bodkin).
I once shot with a bloke who insisted on using realistic medieval weight arrows from a modest draw weight bow they were barely going 120 yards and it looked ridiculous.
https://bowyersdiary.blogspot.com/2020/09/arrow-refurb-day.html
Del
PS. At higher draw weights (up to about 90#) it is worth binding just in front of the nock with some fine linen thread (soaked in superglue), or sinew. For anything over 100# you need a horn inser to withstand the force of the string to prevent the arrow splitting.

[Jacob1]

Ok thanks for the info is making shafts with a shooting board a good choice?

[Del the cat]

Ok thanks for the info is making shafts with a shooting board a good choice?

It simply depends on if you enjoy it, and if you have suitable timber. It's not my thing, but I have done it. Easy enough to make a shooting board, and if you have a good sharp plane (even a little block plane will do) it's not too bad.
If I want to spend time making arrows, it will be flight arrows, and that's a time consuming process!
Del

[stuckinthemud]

Hi Jacob, I notice you are age 15?  Wills and Del are two of the very best warbow builders and their advice  is excellent.  What sort of draw length and weight are you  at now, and where are you looking to move to?

[Jacob1]

I have a draw length of 29 and inches and am trying to make a 70 ish pound bow And can easily shoot a 50 pound bow

[bownarra]

Don't go up more than 5# at a time. At 15 you need to be careful, you only get one set of shoulders
Also better to just shoot lots at this point.

[Hawkdancer]

Plus 1 on that!  Also, lots of exercises like push-ups and lifting! 
Hawkdancer

[Jacob1]

Ok the best muscle groups to work on is shoulder and back right ?

[Strelets]

Yes, you can shoot 11/32"  pine out of 70 or 80 lb bows if you choose the stiffest spine. But, that pine arrow will very probably break if it hits anything other than a target boss or soft ground. I shoot bows of around 70 lb on field courses. When I used 11/32" or 23/64" pine, spruce or cedar I used to break about one arrow a week, often from glancing off a 3D target or overhanging branch. With 3/8" poplar, I used to break one every couple of months or so. With 3/8" ash, I  break one a year at most, usually when it hits a reinforcing bar in a  3D target. If you want maximum speed, go for spruce. If you want maximum durability, go for  hardwoods such as ash or birch in 3/8" or 10 mm. For a really strong heavy arrow go for maple.

[bownarra]

Ok the best muscle groups to work on is shoulder and back right ?

Wrong the body is a whole. Thinking about parts of it in isolation is a bad idea. We don't work like that. It is also easy to just work on the big surface muscles....they only get their ability to pull by being connected to ever smaller structures. Look into the term - bio-tensegrity. To get a better understanding what i'm talking about! More and more trainers are coming around to the idea of bio-tensegrity.
Basically no movement happens in isolation - train your body as a whole. Forget weights for now and focus on callisthenics, form and flexibility.

[meanewood]

It should come as no surprise that the method used 'back in the day' would be the best method for being able to manage heavy bows.
That is, to start with a lower poundage bow (one that you can manage to fully draw, using the correct technique) and build up your capacity gradually.
That is the only way to condition all the muscles, tendons and ligaments required for that action.
Think of it as a chain that is only as strong as its weakest link.
The idea is to not have a weak link because that's where the inevitable injury will occur.
This process did cause long term deformities and heavy wear and tear but that is inevitable when we start to build our capacity beyond what our bodies are 'normally' capable of.
I found that the twisting that comes from the action of drawing the bow was causing me problems so I started to shoot both left and right handed in equal amounts, in order to condition my body equally.
My problem was I started way too late (50's) to be able to get much beyond 110lbs.