relative limb length

[PatM]

http:/ /www.bowyersedge.com/organic.html

[ssrhythm]

I literally flipped and flipped in bed last night from 11:30 till 4:45 when my alarm went off not being able to sleep for trying to work out in my brain all of what has been discussed here.  “Why one limb longer?”  “How can I have the stiff handle designed like I want and still have limbs of equal length and perfect symmetry?”  “Why would this even matter?”  “Would it help?”  “Why would it or wouldn’t it help?”  “Does my design need help?  My twisty-funky selfbow shoots far better than my 1,500$ Lam/glass bow and better than my tried and true Jeffery recurve, so is that all in my mind?” 

Then I’d give that a rest and do the same thing with knapping issues I’m facing.  Didn’t sleep a freaking wink! 

Good to know that as a whole, this board is as confused as I was...I say was, because after reading this, I think I’d have a better chance solving a Rubix Cube than making sense of all the info bouncing around in my noggin.

I’m going to keep all this handy, dandy info in my brain, but I’m going to keep doing what I’m doing until the bows I’m making start feeling and/or performing in a way that forces me to change.  Ie...I’m going to go with the KISS method.

[willie]

I have a long list of questions and theories to address throughout my testing, but if anyone here would like something rooted out... feel free to mention it and I'll try to address it.............

this has already turned into something bigger than I thought it would be, but I'm going to keep chipping away at it for a while.

 exploring ideas as to how we could adjust tiller for dampness in the hand as we approach final draw length during the tillering seems intriguing.

[willie]

You build limbs and come in heavy on both limbs and shoot it in sanding limbs to time and reduce vibration.
Shawn~

Shawn,
when you feel vibration, how do you know where to sand the most?

[Pappy]

I start out with limbs the same length from center of bow unless for some reason the stave won't let me. I do like the balance carrying the bow with a little longer top limb but as for shooting I see no difference. I cradle the bow in the tiller tree to see where I want the arrow pass to be and also have a tab for the scale and pull rope to mimic 3 fingers. Lots of ways to skin a cat but this works for me.
 Pappy

[bassman]

Your right pappy, and if it works it works.

[HH~]

Depending how a guy is gonna shoot the bow 3 under or Split just a matter of how you set tiller and how much weight outter limb is carrying.

3 under Selfbow i leave bottom limb 1/4”-3/8ths for shooter. Lots of vibration pulling all that bottom limb. Split you go 1/4” to even tiller. Limb mass has a lot to do with vibration.

If you getting bad hand shock out of a selfbow something is way off!

Reason glass bow upper is shorter is only cuz you find center and shelf goes in 1” to 1 3/4” above center pivot why on glass bow you have engineer in if want 1/4” positive tiller ie ; thicker belly glass or belly lam or both, etc. with a selfbow you do it by leaving more wood or you can shorten bottom limb.

Of course if you only have back of hand holding you arrow from falling off you can do it whichever way you want. To me a bow without an American selfbow shelf is only 1/2 a bow. If im teaching a new person shooting form im sure as heck not doing it off the back of their hand.

Shawn~

[bassman]

I cut a deep shelf in all of my self bows unless I am making a replica,  but their are those that would call them shelf bows,and not self bows.