Fiberglass takedown sleeve for ELB?

[Mo_coon-catcher]

I’ve made these sleeves for stiff handled flatbows a few times before and really like them. I’m wanting to make a Victorian style English longbow I’m working on into a takedown with one of these sleeves. I’ve seen an old popular mechanic article on them. I think I remember the details correctly for using them on ELBs but want to verify if anyone on here has used them. If I remember correctly: instead of carving in around the sides and belly of the handle the depth of the sleeve, with ELBs the sleeve gets tapered to both sides of the handle without carving in. Does this sound about right? I’m wanting to make sure I’m thinking right before I cut it in half.

The bow I’m working on is a bamboo backed eastern red cedar with the goal of pulling 30# at 26”. It is 70” between the nocks and 7/8” wide. Currently pulling 30# at 22” with no noticeable set. Going for a Victorian style elliptical tiller with the handle being essentially stiff.

Kyle

[PatM]

I never carve a recessed part in for any bow.  You really should try to have  somewhat of a stiffer center section though.

 There was a glass sleeve article in PA a number of years ago.

 This would be the one time it's OK to mention use of glass on this forum since it's solely for the purpose of replacing a metal sleeve.

[Del the cat]

I did one, but didn't allow a sufficiently long stiff section and the upper limb broke. And like Pat M says... I recessed into the back... bad idea  ... but it's how we learn
So I made a new upper limb from a self Yew primitive which had broken, turning it into a Frankenbow 
https://bowyersdiary.blogspot.com/2015/10/takedown-explodes.html
https://bowyersdiary.blogspot.com/2017/03/the-frankenbow.html
I found a good Youtube video showing how to do the sleeve by Grizzly Jim I think
Del

[Bob Barnes]

Kyle, I sent you a PM...   I think you need a nice "Carriage Bow" and I'm looking forward to seeing the one that you build... 

[bownarra]

I've recommended that video of Big Jims to a lot of people.... I've done about 20 of them now.
The handle must not bend at all. You need to add a belly piece to stop the bending there. DO NOT reduce the bow at all, other than to make some reference flats and these can be at the sides.

[Mo_coon-catcher]

Thanks for the replies guys. I’ve been avoiding the handle area like the plague since I started tillering hoping it will stay stiff as I drop weight. The fun of ERC, the handle is 1” thick and still flexes at 30# draw, I was hoping it would be thick enough at this weight to not flex. Here’s a picture of what I’m working with. It’s not full draw, but about 20” with full brace in the picture. I havnt taken a picture of this one since, but the last few inches I have been working the balance of t he limbs and sanding the inner thirds to a couple inches shy of the handle to get that working a bit more. And should get time the final few inches of draw length.

Thanks for sending me that article Bob. I think thats be the article i was thinking of.

Bowmarra - that’s the video series o watched that got me wanting to try one of these sleeves to start with. He does a very good walk then rough of them

Del - from how the handle are looks at the moment on this one, does it look like it may be enough stiffer compared to the one in the blog that blew?

Kyle

[bownarra]

IF you don't cut into it at all it may work. The problem with Big Jims video is that it is for a completely different type of bow that leads itself to that sleeve. Elb's can't have I-beams added nor do they not bend in the handle........You would have to add some 'dips' and even then it would still bend fractioanlly - enough to cause probelms. Even 'stiff handled' elbs bend in the middle....
So trying to put a bendy handle into a non bending sleeve.......is always going to be 'fun'.