ELB dimensions?

[Kegan]

In Popes book, he speaks of leaving the bow full width to midlimb, and then tapering to the tips, Thompson, however, speaks of tapering striaght (pyramid style) from the handle to the tips. I'll probaby be using either hickory, hornbeam, or sassafras- all of which would be tempered, about 72" long for a 27.5" draw, pulling about 80+#. Which would be best?

[sailordad]

i have one i made from boo/ipe it tapers from the midle up, real slight bend in the handle. d belly, pulls about 60lbs(i think) at 29"

dont know if its right,but thats how i was told to do it. i'm still pretty much new



                                                                   peace,
                                                                          tim

[grantmac]

I like to keep the center 6-10" pretty much straight. However I also like to thin the last 10-14" a bit more aggressively then the rest of the taper. This profile makes for less drastic changes in thickness and also keeps mass down in the last 1/3 of the limbs.
Stability can get to be a problem on these narrow ELBs if you've added any reflex, especially in the tips. I prefer to skip the really low brace because it can flip the bow much easier than the long string or medium brace. Also stretchy strings can lead to really awkward situations with higher weights.
     Cheers,
             Grant

[bigcountry]

Not hijacking this post, but I also wonder about dimensions around the handle area.  Are ELB have a working handle?  It appears from pictures that the handle width is same as rest. 

[YewArcher]

All of my elb's follow this basic formula. Lay out the bow's center line. Make your bows width consistant from centerline to 10" t either side. Meaning that you have about 20"of consistant diminsion. For this example we will say 1". Then go 10" beyond that on either side and taper slightley to 7/8". from that point on I taper straight to the tips of 1/2". Then for the belly profile I use either 7:8 for yew and osage 5:6 for white woods. Those diminsions should get your bow started.

I am sure there are lots of differnt ways. Thats the way I do it.

SJM

[Kegan]

Thanks for the help .

Yew Archer, when you speak of 5:6 for thickness, what do you mean?

[YewArcher]

That is the ratio of depth to width. I have them calculated out somewheres I will see if I can find my layout and post it up.

SJM

[Kegan]

Ah, thanks YewArcher !

[bow-toxo]

Do you want the Victorian ELB or the Tiudor/mediaeval ELB ? Grantmac is on the money for the latter variety. I certainly have no interest in producing the Victorian version. I would add; tiller to the arc of a circle a bit longer than the length you want, Then, after shooting a few dozen arrows, trim down the last foot to increase the bend there and shorten to your desired length, either cutting side nocks, leaving a couple of inches past the nocks,  or adding horn side nocks and trim down to your draw weight if necessary. I  believe that is as authentic as you can possibly get.

[Pat B]

Kegan, on the yew war bow I built(95#@30") I started at about 1 1/4" at the center and out half the limb then tapering to 1/2" tips. On the osage ELB I built( 50# to 55#@28") I went from about 1" at the fades and a straight taper to the 1/2" tips. I think with a heavier weight bow the war bow formula would work out best.      Pat

[bigcountry]

All of my elb's follow this basic formula. Lay out the bow's center line. Make your bows width consistant from centerline to 10" t either side. Meaning that you have about 20"of consistant diminsion. For this example we will say 1". Then go 10" beyond that on either side and taper slightley to 7/8". from that point on I taper straight to the tips of 1/2". Then for the belly profile I use either 7:8 for yew and osage 5:6 for white woods. Those diminsions should get your bow started.

I am sure there are lots of differnt ways. Thats the way I do it.

SJM

so on an ELB, the width of the handle will be the same width as 10" from centerline?  Is all ELB designs like that?  And are all ELB's working handle?

[YewArcher]

Big, yes. 20" of the same width. I am not sure if they are all laid out like that. That is the formula that I found really works well for me and my bows. I have seen bows that aper from the center all the way to the tips as well.  I think that the ELB has allot of variation in what people think of them. Mine always bend in the handel because I prefer that style of bow and thik that the shoot nicest that way. I have seen elbs with stiff slight riser as well but I do not care for them.

SJM