Sycamore staves

[NewBowyer]

I cut 2 sycamore saplings (3-5” diameter) after turkey hunting today. I sealed the ends but I’m wondering what else, if anything, to do to prep them. I’d like to leave the bark on the backs if possible; it’s smooth and seems thin. I know they’ll take forever to dry that way so I’ll rough out the bellies and grip when I have time, but any thoughts about how best to handle them, what type of bow works best with them, etc? I read that they like a wide, flat limb and can make a decent bow If it’s designed for that wood. Thanks.

[Bubbabowyer]

I always struggled trying to get a wide limb bow from a high crowned stave. Perhaps some much more knowledgeable bowyers can give you better advice. I would recommend decrowning and backing it with something.

[bownarra]

Keep the wider one and personally I wouldn't bother with the narrow staves. It is like a low density maple. 1 3/4 - 2" wide limbs, flat belly, trapped back and heat treated belly. To avoid set you must strain the back and give the belly every chance. If you avoid excessive set with these measures it will make a good bow.

[Jim Davis]

No advantage to decrowning. There is less wood on  the back, but wood is 3 times  stronger  in  tension. I have made bows from small logs and never had one fail in tension, though several  chrysalled on the belly.

[NewBowyer]

Thanks for the ideas, all. I'll try trapping the back and using a wide, heat-treated belly, and see what happens.

[Jim Davis]

No advantage to trapping the back--it will already be narrow.

[aznboi3644]

I would suggest stripping the bark off while green.  It’s a pain in the butt to scrape the bark off a few months after it dries.

Sycamore makes a good bow and takes heat treating well.

[Del the cat]

Sycamore will make a serviceable English Longbow at moderate poundage say up to 50# so the narrow logs may be ok for a medium width design.
Del