Tiller/set

[DC]

I'm working on a maple d/r. I was pulling it to 40# and it started to take a little set just out of the fades. It's just showing but it's there, maybe 1/2-3/4". Now that I think about it, right where I stopped the heat treat. Anyway I dropped to 35# and it hasn't taken more set. I'm at 15" draw length. What I'm thinking is that it's "hinging" in the fades. If I stop scraping there, when I get out to about 20-22" or something and the bend has evened out could I go back up to 40#?  By then the strain will be on the whole limb and maybe there will be less strain on the fades. Wishful thinking?

[Pat B]

The fade areas are the most stressed area on the limb because of the leverage of the limbs. How wide are the fades?

[Badger]

Thats a good question and you made a good catch on that one, at 40# it might be ok now because the limbs are pulled down further at this point in the draw and effectively have a little less leverage on the fades.

[DC]

The fade areas are the most stressed area on the limb because of the leverage of the limbs. How wide are the fades?

I was hoping to get them 1 3/4" wide but there was a skinny spot and i had to go down to 1 1/2".

[DC]

Thats a good question and you made a good catch on that one, at 40# it might be ok now because the limbs are pulled down further at this point in the draw and effectively have a little less leverage on the fades.

I was trying to keep the heat off the splice so I stayed out a little to far from the fades. I heat treated the spot's I missed so we'll see tomorrow.

[Del the cat]

Chasing higher draw weights is generally a mistake... been there done that.
Better to have a well tillered "n" pound than a badly tillered "n+5" or "n+10"
Del

[George Tsoukalas]

Wooden bows hinge because too much wood was removed in that spot  and not because  the bowyer wanted too heavy a bow.

The fix is to leave that area alone and remove wood from  above and below the area.

In my early days I'd get chrysals right at the fades.

Also, wooden bows may take excessive set (< 2 in.) or chrysal over the whole limb if the design is not up to snuff ie too narrow or short for the weight wanted.

Jawge

[leonwood]

I think you are good to go for the 40 beacuse you are only at 15. On my last splice I covered the splice in alu foil and heat treated the fades away from the foil (does this make sence?). I think you can try that as well for just the fade area, will probably help some with the draw weight too.