Bendy Handle & Placement of Handle-Section?

[DC]

What's this "group" people talk about   I guess maybe you have to be a decent shot to notice this kind of thing . Would moving your hand up or down minimise string vibration? The bow I'm shooting in now has a noticeable twang. It's just a straight bow. I expect string noise from a recurve but this kind off surprised me. With 4" allowed for a handle in layup it doesn't leave to much room to move your hand.

[Springbuck]

Simk,
          Play around with your bow and shoot from different grip placements...When you find that magic spot, mark it...
                          Don

  That's one of the nice things about a bend in the handle design.  Shoot it from where it feels best!

Otherwise, I do about like you do, Don.    I place either my middle finger, or the space between forefinger and middle finger, on the middle of the bow.

[burchett.donald]

Springbuck,
                   Good plan man...I usually start my tiller from the center static fulcrum as seen in this pic...Maybe out to 20" or 22"...Then in the hand for the rest of the way...Checking and feeling for balance, this is critical for short limbs...Tiller may not look perfect but balance in hand is..."My balance determines" my arrow pass on each bendy....It's an ending result, not predetermined...Nock adjustment is another factor in the equation...Important for some to remember when moving your shooting hand you also need to have the appropriate nock height to coincide with the testing...
                   
                                                                                                                 Don

[Springbuck]

Don said:  "Then in the hand for the rest of the way...Checking and feeling for balance, this is critical for short limbs...Tiller may not look perfect but balance in hand is..."

   I just relearned this, in fact.  I don't do a lot of BITH bows because of the wood available to me, stuff like elm that I assumed wasn't elastic without being wide.  And I hate wide flat handles, so......

  But recently I made an elm BITH as a tillering exercise to help teach a beginner.  About 1-1/8" wide, almost 1" thick middle, 68" long or so.  I was pretty happy because it was taking some, but limited, set and we were headed for a high draw despite me rushing to tiller.  But when we started shooting it at partial draw I could really feel that it was way off.  The strung profile looked fine, and the drawn profile looked fine, but the top limb felt so stiff that it wanted to rock back in my hand.   I wanted a barely positive tiller, and moving my hand down an inch or two wasn't enough. 

  SO, what I figured out finally, because the top limb had a series of nipple knots and lumpy covered over pins, despite my efforts, there was less wood bending.  So, it took a tad more set.  Thus, the tiller LOOKED pretty good, but the top limb was BENDING more ONLY due to BEND + SET!

  So, I went back, thinned every thick spot I could, and accepted that the tiller looked slightly lopsided, but trusted how it felt at full draw.