Author Topic: Designs in Eastern Woodlands bows  (Read 1338 times)

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Offline shackleton

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Designs in Eastern Woodlands bows
« on: March 10, 2018, 09:34:18 am »
 As a beginning builder I was wondering how you would go about achieving these patterns burned into the bow?
Scott

Offline JWMALONE

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Re: Designs in Eastern Woodlands bows
« Reply #1 on: March 10, 2018, 10:23:58 am »
Ive wondered that myself. I use to do a lot of wood burning pictures for clocks an such. A wood burner would work, but I would think youd have to go lightly so as not to burn to deep. A cheap wood burner has no heat setting, I would recommend spending a few extra bucks and getting a good one that will give you a steadier temp. They may have carved that in there and then scorched with hot rock or something. Ive done that as well, only I used a hot coat hanger to scorch it after I carved in the design. None of that was on the back of a bow mind you, maybe some one whos done it will chime in.
 Keep us posted, I have that book as well and want to make every bow in it.
Red Oak its the gateway wood!

Offline NorthHeart

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Re: Designs in Eastern Woodlands bows
« Reply #2 on: March 10, 2018, 10:38:01 am »
I love decoration like that.  Just concerned about a splinter lifting on the back at full draw where the lines are burned in.  I did a search on here regarding wood burning and most opinions pointed to applying it on the sides or belly.  I think one guy did the back of a hickory bow or something.  I have a cheap wood burner not temp controllable, however it burns so conservatively you have to go over the same areas twice (or hold it on longer) in order to get much of an effect, so i don't think over doing it is something that will happen so long as im paying attention.

Offline Springbuck

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Re: Designs in Eastern Woodlands bows
« Reply #3 on: March 10, 2018, 03:30:36 pm »
I've wondered about this, too, and wonder how they got away with it.  Gotta be shallow, and frankly, paints or dyes seem easier.

I considered chasing down one ring and leaving the winter wood on the surface.  Just a thin layer to work the design into, but with a strong summer ring holding the real tension load.  Or leaving that last layer of inner bark?  These days I could glue it down or consolidate it with glue or wood hardener, but how about back then?

  I will say that if the tiller is PERFECT and the stave perfect and clean,  that would help.

 Also, I took the bark off some plum last fall, and the whole first ring was eaten up with the squiggles of some small borers, nearly 1/16" deep. " Ruined for sure" I thought, and tried to break it over my knee in disgust.  It chose not to break.  It flexed, took no set, really, and didn't pop anything up or flake off the front like I would have expected.  WTHeck?  So, I floor-tillered it, but haven't messed with it yet.