Hazel staff still green in center -> more waiting?

[Sir Failalot]

Well I kinda guess that it's a dumb question and to be honest, I have never seen a belly lean into the curve like that on photos of character bows. ^^

It's just the tbeory behind it that's interesting me.

[Sir Failalot]

I am currently shaping the bow to get it on the tiller tree. There is a region that is worrying me.



There is a branch running across the belly. Working there is a pain. It's very dry and huge splitters are coming of. Now there is that big chunk that jumped off that is just as deep as it is allowed to be. I am kinda anxious to work there. Any tips? Should i leave the belly thicker there?

I did not expect that area to be that hard.

[Pat B]

Use a rasp in that area to smooth it out.

[Sir Failalot]

Got it down. Was a lot of work, I really should get a better rasp. I used sand paper I had in the end. I think it is ready for the long string now. I will prepare a grid for my tiller "tree" to help me see the bends better. I am going for a 0/0 tiller so that will help me.
I will keep you all updated and will quite sure need a few advises along the way ^^

Thanks for the ongoing support here

[mikekeswick]

One of the main problems with small diameter staves is if a small branch runs across the belly. It is always best to try and avoid any knots on the side of small staves.
Hopefully as you work it further you will  get 'under' that section. The grain will always be a bit funky in that area and will want to tear out with edged tools so only use a rasp/files in that area.
Hazel is great wood when it is clean and free of knots but it will chrysal quickly if a knotty area isn't worked correctly. When there is a knot on the belly you need to allow extra width so there is the same amount of clean wood as above and below it. If a knot was 1/8th diameter then I would allow an extra 3/16ths width around it (follow the grain on the back). Don't leave these areas thicker/stiff it just makes the problem worse.
Good luck  

[Sir Failalot]

When I read that branches should be in the middle of the back if they are not avoidable, I did not get why.. now I know. But u gotta see it for yourself if nobody is telling you the reason. It's logical, but.. yeah ^^ 

When cutting that stave it looked so straight. Seems like everything is relative. I do neither have the space, nor the equipment to bend a stave so I had no choice. The back needed to be where it is now. I too hope that I will get 'under' the branch
Do u guys have a really rough rasp for areas like that? Ive got a typical one here and as I said.. it takes a while.

I did allow extra width at the branches. Its everything the stave had to offer. I hope it will not break there. If so.. there is one good stave left, one thin (the one in the photo on page one) and one that needs bending. So i've got at least 2 more tries. But of course I am doing my best to use that one here

Good advice with the thickness in these sections. I was about to ask that

Anyway I will send pictures soon!

[DC]

A farriers rasp.

[Sir Failalot]

I will have a look for such a rasp. Looks perfect   

Here are pictures of the bow:







One limb has more reflex than the other (if you can call that reflex) how should I tiller?
Should the limbs be in the same horizontal position when the bow is fully drawn or should tbe difference stay as it is?

Is it even possible to make a bow without hand shock without bending the limbs to make them even?

I googled the problem but did not find a solution.

[Morgan]

I don’t know how well that wood steam or heat bends, but I would try to Match the reflex if it were mine. But if it were my first, I’d probably try to make it dead straight as possible before tillering.  That much difference in side profile would give me fits, and I’d think it’d be hard to balance it. There are folks on here that could do it no problem, I couldn’t at the skill level I’m at now.

[Sir Failalot]

Seems like Hazel is bendable with steam. I will try to get it straight.

But I am kinda tempted to let the one limb kinda snaky when looking down on the back. I think it adds character.

I will post pictures. Maybe I can do that tonight.

[Sir Failalot]

I tried steam bending that limb, but it did completely nothing. I put it above a pot with water, and sealed it with aluminium foil. When the water was cooking, I waited 30 minutes, took the bow of and tried to bend it. It felt a bit more elastic but the small bend I was able to do just went away.
Possible reasons:
1. The steam was able to left the foil and pot a bit
2. 30 minutes was not enough
3. The bow was still too stick.

You can see pictures of the section I tried to bend down there. It is 1,5 cm thick (3/5 in) now, but was a little thicker when I tried to bend it yesterday. I am quite sure that was the reason but I dont want to take too much off.

Can anybody with experience tell me something about my 3 possible reasons?
Is there a problem with trying to steam bend a section too often because of it getting too dry?

[DC]

For that thickness your steam time should be 45 min. Don't seal it in too tight. There should be a good flow of steam.
You don't say how you bent it, over your knee, with clamps and a form, etc. Clamps and a form is the way to go.
You didn't say how long you held it bent. It should be bent a bit farther than you want and left at least until it is cold, preferably overnight.