Cut bow up

[Selfbowman]

What can these numbers tell us if any thing?

[Selfbowman]

Cut this bow up to see if it could tell us where the set is and if weighed sections can tell us anything? Any help here! Arvin

[Selfbowman]

4" tips.39 oz. mid limb 4" 1.07 oz . 4" at fade 1.58 oz. 30 " limbs . Handle 10" at 7 oz. limbs 30" total. Arvin

[mikekeswick]

What is really interesting is making a bow the cutting it along the neutral plane. To see whether it is the back or belly that took the set. Everytime I have done it the belly went into more set and the back went back to being its original profile. That tells me to trap more

[stuckinthemud]

Sorry Mike, I don't understand that, could you explain further?

[Selfbowman]

I also wanted to use this to determine the width for bow design. This is why I am building the same wood at same length with similar design tell I get it right. I have found not all Osage is created equal. This throws the monkey wrench into the mix. Arvin

[Eric Krewson]

I recently made a hickory bow like that, it hinged for no apparent reason to the extent it was not worth fooling with. Rather than spend another minute working on it, I consigned it to my bandsaw and then to the bbq grill.

[Selfbowman]

Eric this bow was one of my flight bows that blew at the flats. So it was about 170 ft per second with 500 grains. It did take a little set and that's why I was trying to find out if the numbers and place it took set coincided. I just don't know how to do the math! Arvin

[George Tsoukalas]

I don't understand, Selbowman, the premise or the plan. Could you not tell where the set was by looking at it? I'm so confused.


However, I manage to keep the set under 2 inches for most of my bows.

I've had so many mentors including Holzhauser, Baker, Torges, and Hamm.

I remember reading something from the Dean, as I called Dean Torges.

Something about, "Dry wood expertly tillered..."

Anyway, I bought  a moisture meter about 20 years ago and immediately noted that my bows took less set.

Jawge

[Selfbowman]

George I'm thinking out loud here I guess. Yes I could see where the set occurred and that tells us many different things on how to address it. At the end of the day the mass is not perfect yet. Take some off the end or at fades  , narrow the limbs, thin the limbs.  All of which can prevent or cause more set. I also know it's feeling a piece of wood. How heavy it is? Is it dry or full of moister? Weight can tell us about densedy which will give us bow design. Someone one here once said I was chasing a rabbit here. And they may be right. Can't help it .  To curious to be satisfied yet about all this info. Again I can't do the math to prove or disprove that the mass needs to be in another place to prevent set . How ever it could be helpful in bow design for sure. Arvin 

[BowEd]

In think it's a good topic Arvin.Through giving the bow the same thickness taper and different width measuring draw weight and through mass weighing the bow as I tiller it to complete the bow.Then carving handle out I get an idea myself on the density of the wood from bow to bow.Like slowing down using the mass principle tiller method.
Mike's comment was informing too as I've seen the same thing happen with wood.The back can afford to have less material and still balance the forces exerted in the bow limb.It's another example of why sapling osage bows are snappy shooters.