Author Topic: bowyery tools  (Read 8050 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline willie

  • Member
  • Posts: 3,268
Re: bowyery tools
« Reply #30 on: September 22, 2016, 12:59:54 am »
like my spoke shave, but I have to admit that it has had the sole slightly radiused (front to back) and the blade radiused (side to side) to keep the corners away from the work. takes a bit to get the hang of it also. Like my shinto almost as much as one of those high dollar rasps, and a big half round bastard file get used a lot. (it has never touched a piece of metal)

Offline PEARL DRUMS

  • Member
  • Posts: 14,079
  • }}}--CK-->
Re: bowyery tools
« Reply #31 on: September 22, 2016, 07:00:36 am »
You asked if you should get a spoke shave or plane. My reply was, nope. You wont use either. A scraper, a rasp or two and a sanding block will build and shape any part of any bow.
Only when the last tree has died and the last river has been poisoned and the last fish has been caught will we realize we cannot eat money.

Offline Tuomo

  • Member
  • Posts: 155
    • Puujousi
Re: bowyery tools
« Reply #32 on: September 22, 2016, 07:46:58 am »
You need different kind of tools. The is no one "magic" tool, which suites to all tasks. For board bows and clear staves cutting tools are just great and comfortable to use. With good axe, hand plane (bench plane no. 2 or 3) and/or spoke shave you can do anything you want. I have fine-tillered many bows with spoke shave only, so no scraper. In fact, after buying a good (and expensive...) spoke shave I don't need scaper so much. With sharp spoke shave you can cut as thin shaves as with scraper. But the cutting tools have to have a very sharp blade, otherwise they are useless.

A (thick) scraper is valuable tool when you have knots or irregular grain or very dense and hard wood. I prefer scraper when tillering ipe-bellied laminates, when hand plane or spoke shave would tear wood.

I need rasps occasionally, usually when I have very problematic knot or something like that. Tillering with rasps is tricky in my opinion. And it makes a lot of mess and dust. There are many kind of rasps - traditional rasp, shinto rasp, surform, microplane or iwasaki rasp (like a float). After using all of them, I prefer iwasaki rasp. It is relative cheap, fast and produces very fine surface. You can use scraper after iwasaki, which is unusual with other types of rasps.

With soft woods I prefer cutting tools and hard woods I use cutting tools always when possible and if not, then non-cutting tools, i.e. rasps and scraper. So, the best tools depends what you are doing, and where. For tillering, I like the spoke shave, iwasaki rasp and scraper is the best trio. But you do not know it before you have tried...

Offline cadet

  • Member
  • Posts: 82
Re: bowyery tools
« Reply #33 on: September 22, 2016, 09:30:57 am »
I just looked up your iwasaki rasps/files; they're the same as what I know as dreadnought files; they go by a few other names too; they're very, very useful tools.

Offline Badger

  • Member
  • Posts: 8,124
Re: bowyery tools
« Reply #34 on: September 22, 2016, 10:07:04 am »
    I don't use all that many tools anymore. I use different tools if I am doing a laminated bows as opposed to an osage stave.

 Osage, draw knife, chain saw file, #49 rasp, scraper.

 English longbows from staves, draw knife and or spoke shave, 49 rasp, scraper, chain saw file

 Whitewoods and boards I often use a spokeshave in addition to the other tools

 Backed ipe board laminated, mostly a rasp and a scraper.