First HHB haul

[osage outlaw]

OK, maybe not a haul but I'm still thrilled with it.  I've been looking for some HHB trees in my area ever since I got into bows.  This winter I found some on the property at work.  I have permission to cut some trees as long as I clean up the mess.  I took my folding saw with me today and cut it down.  It isn't the biggest or best but I think there is a bow or two in it.  The bark runs straight.  I got two sections out of it.  I also found a second growth limb on a black walnut that was straight and no limbs so I cut it to.  It's all sapwood.  I'm not sure if it will make a bow but it will be fun to experiment with.  I picked up a few vine twisted trees for hiking sticks and other projects.  And on the way home I found a nice black rat snake dead on the road.  I wish all work days could be like this.

[bowmo]

Nice! We must have been on the same mind set. I nabbed this one yesterday and a buckthorn tree.

Careful splitting it. You can deeeestroy this wood spitting it. I does NOT like to be split.

[Stixnstones]

I'd say all in all thats a great haul for one day. Bow wood and snake skin and walkin stix, thats a great haul

[osage outlaw]

So what is the best way to split it?  Should I saw it in half?  The only experience I have with splitting HHB was with a 10 year old piece the same diameter and it split straight down the middle.

[bowmo]

It splits better dry than wet. The grain is super interlocking and can tear into the meat you need and the whole split can over flex when green and run cracks in straight through from the belly to the back. I would saw it if you have the option...

The bigger the tree the less it's a problem. But, as I'm sure you noticed they rarely grow to a decent size and 50% have a spiral.

[osage outlaw]

I might just let it season whole and split it after a couple of years. 

[half eye]

Hey O2,   If your saw will handle it you may wish cut it in half at this time. Here is why I do it that way.

1. Bark it now cause once it's dried on it will be absolutely no fun to do later and keep a clean back.
2. When you cut it down the middle one side will either reflex and the other will be straight or perhaps the other way around. If you have the deflex deal you can suspend the piece between 2 saw horses and weight it down to dry.
3. The smaller diameter will dry and cure a lot better when split (sawed in two) and usually will not develop checks in the back.
4. regarding checks, if you dry it in the round it will develop a check but you dont get to decide where that will be. if you wish to dry it in the round, peel it and make a kerf cut down the center and it will most likely check on that cut.
5. Where ever you you put it up to dry / cure make sure it is not in direct sunlight. shaded with air moving will make a fine stave for you.

Thats what I do with mine hope that helps ya some. Also green ironwood will not gum-up your saw blades like Ash will so no need for a water or kerosene drip.
rich

[PEARL DRUMS]

I'd suggest peeling it clean now as well, find the grain and saw it in half. Seal the ends only and toss it aside. Be dang sure you don't cut it straight unless its straight, but you already know that.

[TRACY]

Heck of a day! Cambium layer may not peel off with bark but it scrapes and sands well.

Tracy

[blackhawk]

Yup...peel n seal n saw that baby now pal.

[Marc St Louis]

If there is any spiral growth to the tree the stave will twist as it dries if you saw it in half, severely if there is a lot of twist.  You will know if the wood has spiral growth once you remove the bark

[osage outlaw]

Thanks for the tips Rich.  And thanks for the advice guys.  I'll peel the bark off and check out the grain.  The bark looks like it is running straight so I hope the grain does the same.