58" elm stave design

[Crogacht]

Hi guys,

I'll be starting on my first bow in a couple of weeks once I've cleared a bit of space to work.

I have 4 elm staves, about 58 inches in length, and I was wondering what the best design would be?

They're a bit wavy, deflex or reflex in places, but there is no twist.

I really wish they were a bit longer, but not much was taken into consideration when they were cut down.

If pics would help, I can put some up.

Oh, I also have some staves of a native wood that are 2 metres in length if a longer bow would be better to start with. They're just not completely seasoned yet, but I could rough them out and wait.


Thanks,

Ben

[Crogacht]

After a lot of searching around this site. It seems a few other people have gone with a pyramid or paddle type design for elm at around 58", and still managed to get a decent bow out of it. I think that may be a good starting point

[dwardo]

That's pretty short for your first bow. The shorter you go the less room there is for error, tiller has to be perfect for it not to fail.

Not trying to put you off it's just going to be hard work. The more percentage of the wood you have bending the better so you will want the handle to work to share the load.

Not saying it isn't possible to have static handle and recurved tips but it just might be a little much for a first attempt.

Maybe splice two longer sections together and get something nearer 68. May not sound like a lot more length but it can make all the difference.

Post some pictures of the timber

[Del the cat]

Most of it has already been said, but I'd add don't go for too high a draw weight, say 40# max.
Also keep the grip/fades as short as pos. The bottom edge of your hand can 'overflow' the grip down on to the fade to save room. 4"- 6" max is enough really or go for a bend in the handle design.
Del

[Crogacht]

Thanks a lot guys.

I don't mind going quite low on the draw weight. Even closer to 30# would be fine for a start I think.

Like I said, I have other staves which are nice and long, but they're just not dry yet, so I could start on those instead.

I'll post a few pics later on.

[PEARL DRUMS]

A 58" healthy elm stave will easily draw 26-27" if the handle works some. I have a 52" elm that pulls high 40's @ 25. Its unbacked and about 1 1/2" wide max. It heat tempered and holds reflex.

[Crogacht]

Thanks PEARL,

I haven't drawn a lot of bows and I'm only average height, so I was thinking of going maybe 35-40# @ 26" for a first attempt.

They won't be the easiest staves I don't think. They're going to require bending, and be pretty hard to tiller for a first bow.

Here are photos of the four elm staves. I should also put in a bit of a disclaimer... I am about 95% sure these are elm. I cut them 10 years ago and didn't pay any attention to what kind of wood it was. But going off the bark and the other trees that are still at that location, with the same bark, and my amateur tree ID skills, I think elm of some kind. Maybe sweetgum But I think elm.

[Pat B]

Did you see my 60" Elm Static Recurve build along in "Archives".  It is 60"t/t and about 58"n/n, 55#@28"    That bow taught me how good of a bow wood elm is.

[Crogacht]

I hadn't, no. But I just read the whole thing. That's a damn nice bow.... if I can get mine to stay together and pull more than 30# I'll be very happy.

What is it that makes elm so good? It doesn't seem to have mechanical properties in the range of a lot of other good bow woods, but then again, those numbers often mean absolutely nothing if you find a good stave and give it good design it would seem.

One end of my staves have a bit of natural reflex, so maybe I could do the other tip to match it?

[Pat B]

 Elm works and manipulates well with heat and tempering the belly give it that extra zip. That was my first elm bow and I was very impressed.

[PrimitiveTim]

Bend through the handle all the way!  I haven't been able to make anything else since I made my first one. 

[Crogacht]

I feel like going out in the forest and finding the wood is half the fun, and making the bow must be at least the other half. Doesn't leave much room for shooting it!

I have heaps of native species around here with suitability for bows largely unknown, so that will keep me busy for a very long time.

Bend in the handle sounds like fun

I might have to get out and take the bark off these staves to give me something to do until I can start the real work. I don't think I can wait much longer.