Author Topic: Ipe questions  (Read 4292 times)

0 Members and 2 Guests are viewing this topic.

Offline DarkSoul

  • Member
  • Posts: 1,315
    • Orion Bows
Re: Ipe questions
« Reply #15 on: November 20, 2013, 04:31:29 pm »
The first time you work with ipé, you'll be amazed by how stiff it is. You'll likely overbuilt the first bow and have two other bows worth of ipé laying on the floor in wood shavings.
"Sonuit contento nervus ab arcu."
Ovid, Metamorphoses VI-286

Offline Bryce

  • Global Moderator
  • Member
  • Posts: 3,125
  • Pacific Ghost Longbows
Re: Ipe questions
« Reply #16 on: November 20, 2013, 05:49:05 pm »
The first time you work with ipé, you'll be amazed by how stiff it is. You'll likely overbuilt the first bow and have two other bows worth of ipé laying on the floor in wood shavings.

Yep! Ripped my to 1 1/4" now I'm thinking that's about right but! I could've been 1/8" thinner.
Clatskanie, Oregon

Offline DelawareDave

  • Member
  • Posts: 1
Re: Ipe questions
« Reply #17 on: November 22, 2013, 07:22:54 pm »
I was was taught to NEVER use acetone on oily wood because it just draws out more oil.  I have made bows, spearguns, and furniture all with stuff like ipe, teak, etc and have never had a glue or epoxy failure.  I just sand well, NO toothing or any deep scratching then just blow off with compressed air and glue right away. 

mikekeswick

  • Guest
Re: Ipe questions
« Reply #18 on: November 23, 2013, 09:24:46 am »
I was was taught to NEVER use acetone on oily wood because it just draws out more oil.  I have made bows, spearguns, and furniture all with stuff like ipe, teak, etc and have never had a glue or epoxy failure.  I just sand well, NO toothing or any deep scratching then just blow off with compressed air and glue right away.
+1
Titebond 3 with feshly prepared surfaces than mate perfectly. Sanded to 80 grit. I use a drum sander for final sanding. I've never had any problems using these methods.
Resourcinol is a very good bow making glue. It gives you a dark purple glue line that can be used to make some interesting colour combos.
However i've also tried using acetone...with no glue failures. I would like to read more about acetone/gluing/oils. It would be worth doing some tesing on this.

Offline toomanyknots

  • Member
  • Posts: 3,132
Re: Ipe questions
« Reply #19 on: November 23, 2013, 11:56:31 am »
I never had a problem gluing boo or hickory backings to ipe. I used TBIII or Urac all with good results.

How do you get yours clean? Acetone and a scrub brush? I'd love to use ipe again, but I've STILL got the scars from where mine committed suicide on me, so I'm a little skiddish...

I make a good amount of these anymore. I use tb3 as well. And I don't use acetone or anything, I just wipe em down with a clean damp rag a bunch of times. Haven't had a problem (yet). Make sure your gluing surfaces are flat, check with a straight edge or ruler, sometimes belt sanders leave a crown, especially if the belt is old and lower grit like 36 I find. After I flatten them with 36 grit, I have to re-flatten with 80 grit to make sure they are good and flat. Also, you gotta clamp it just right, you have to use a good amount of pressure but not enough to squeeze all the glue out. I prefer bike inner tubes cut up into rubber bands.
"The way of heaven is like the bending of a bow-
 the upper part is pressed down,
 the lower part is raised up,
 the part that has too much is reduced,
 the part that has too little is increased."

- Tao Te Ching, 77, A new translation by Victor H. Mair

Offline vinemaplebows

  • Member
  • Posts: 1,419
Re: Ipe questions
« Reply #20 on: November 23, 2013, 12:52:25 pm »
I generally heat the IPE with a heat gun, then wipe with acetone. Figure if there is any oil it should make it easier to get off will a little added heat.


VMB
Debating is an intellectual exchange of differing views...with no winners.