??? about osage

[Pat B]

This is a good example why I seal the back of any stave with shellac, whether it be green or seasoned. Had you sealed the back you probably would not have gotten the checks. Shellac can stand up to steam and heat.
 That is gonna be a nice bow when done. 

[Joec123able]

You got lucky big Joe. Did you seal the area steamed? Sometimes it can help.

Yep after ya steam and bend into shape I like to put wood glue on the back and belly where it was steamed

[paulsemp]

Every piece of Osage I have has a check of some sort in it. Super glue and it will be fine

[danny f]

cheers i was pleased how the recurves turned out, i have plenty of sinew or rawhide, im just unsure which way to jump, the sinew needs processing first so i could save the sinew for some yew thats seasoning. and at least with rawhide is quicker, as i can be abit impatient waiting for things to dry lol.

[danny f]

i bought this stave from someone on another forum as you cant get osage here very easily.and it was cheap, so i dont know whether it was sealed or not. i was worried about the belly as i have had wood split there before but i didnt expect the back to go at all. you live and learn. i will get some super glue in there and probably go with the rawhide on this one. and save the sinew cheers for the advice.

[SLIMBOB]

Pearl Pat and Paul are right IMO.  Has to do with moisture in the wood when your steaming it, sealed back will minimize it.  Fill with CA glue and forget 'em.

[Josh B]

With your length and mongo-hooks, I would definitely lay down 3 courses of sinew for the drawlength you want.  And I agree with Paul.  Fill those cracks with thin superglue and forget em.  Josh

[Hamish]

I've had that sort of cracking when I use really dry wood,  with heat(dry heat in my case). I have also found that shellac makes the problem worse as it keeps the heat in the cells trapping it until the pressure builds up so much the cells burst. I haven't had the problem since not having shellac on the back and using vegetable oil to help the heat penetrate with sealing the cells.

Not exactly sure what method of heat bending you used? Most guys steam or boil for tips, some guys even get away with dry heat(not many). If you steamed or boiled the tips the only thing I can think of might be to try letting the the last foot or so of the limb sit in a bucket of water for a week before steaming.

None of your cracks look like they run off the side of the limb. I have a feeling that the superglue method should be enough, but you would be bulletproof with rawhide or sinew, like the other guys have said.
It looks like a really nice stave despite the checks. I'd go with sinew if you want a long draw on a short bow.

[Pappy]

I steam wet/unseasoned [2 years or less] wood and dry heat seasoned/dry  wood and seal both, have trouble once in a while but not usually. when I do I just fill them with Superglue and move on as long as they don't run off the edge. I'm with Gun doc on the sinew, you used up a lot of working limb and it short for the   draw you want already. IMO.
   Pappy

[blackhawk]

+3 on the sinew

[danny f]

the recurves where steamed for 50 mins. i have had bad luck with dry heat and bending recurves. looks like i better get processing some sinew then. thanks for the advice everyone.