Author Topic: Maple board  (Read 3238 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline bow101

  • Member
  • Posts: 2,235
Maple board
« on: September 24, 2013, 12:59:07 pm »
Maple board bow, 45# @28" 64ntn. 2" at the fades and tapers down to 5/8" at the tips. 2" of set. Overlays are yew. Picked the best grain I could find, no twist, no hand shock..!  It looks like a hinge on the top limb (right side) but trust me I have pulled this bow to 30" no problem, its been shot about 50 times. The pondage is written as 45# but its really 50# after re-calibrating the scale.
"The privilege of a lifetime is being who you are."  Joseph Campbell

Offline adb

  • Member
  • Posts: 5,339
Re: Maple board
« Reply #1 on: September 24, 2013, 01:23:23 pm »
I think your bow has taken 2" of set because it's only bending just out of the fades. Your tips are very heavy and are just along for the ride, contributing little. Here's some pics of a little maple board bow I made for a buddy's wife... 40#@26", with 1/2" of set. Try and get all of your limbs doing some work, and the bow will last a long time and take little set. And why are you pulling it to 30"?
« Last Edit: September 24, 2013, 01:32:33 pm by adb »

blackhawk

  • Guest
Re: Maple board
« Reply #2 on: September 24, 2013, 01:27:48 pm »
Yup...and just cus you can pull it to 30" 50 times doesn't mean its not hinged....good effort but I'd retiller and fix it....that has a good chance of fretting,or at the very least will take more set,and I'm betting it thumps your hand IMO of what shock is

Offline BowSlayer

  • Member
  • Posts: 644
Re: Maple board
« Reply #3 on: September 24, 2013, 02:38:21 pm »
thoose tips are very stiff. good luck :laugh:
London, England.

45#@28"

Offline bubby

  • Member
  • Posts: 11,054
Re: Maple board
« Reply #4 on: September 24, 2013, 03:20:37 pm »
yep whats been said and i'm sorry but that does appear to be a hinge
failure is an option, everyone fails, it's how you handle it that matters.
The few the proud the 27🏹

Offline bow101

  • Member
  • Posts: 2,235
Re: Maple board
« Reply #5 on: September 24, 2013, 03:58:58 pm »
I'll work on the tips ......thanks. 

Yup...and just cus you can pull it to 30" 50 times doesn't mean its not hinged....good effort but I'd retiller and fix it....that has a good chance of fretting,or at the very least will take more set,and I'm betting it thumps your hand IMO of what shock is

I only pulled it a couple times to 30" curious. It does not thump at all.
"The privilege of a lifetime is being who you are."  Joseph Campbell

Offline PEARL DRUMS

  • Member
  • Posts: 14,079
  • }}}--CK-->
Re: Maple board
« Reply #6 on: September 24, 2013, 04:22:28 pm »
Be careful cutting shelves into working handles, that's a large no-no. That narrow pass is your narrowest point in that bow, with no depth to reinforce it. Be VERY careful with it. If it make any noise at all, take the string off it and put it away.
Only when the last tree has died and the last river has been poisoned and the last fish has been caught will we realize we cannot eat money.

Offline bow101

  • Member
  • Posts: 2,235
Re: Maple board
« Reply #7 on: September 24, 2013, 04:27:13 pm »
I was aware of that and like I read on here many times before it's touch and go.  Hope fully working the tips more will take stress off the riser... correct..?
"The privilege of a lifetime is being who you are."  Joseph Campbell

Offline PEARL DRUMS

  • Member
  • Posts: 14,079
  • }}}--CK-->
Re: Maple board
« Reply #8 on: September 24, 2013, 04:31:38 pm »
The best bet is to skip the shelf and make the handle the same width as the bow, or maybe 1/16" more narrow for comfort. Your really gambling as is. The biggest problem is she will blow right at the rest and that's a tough one to contain and not get blasted in the nose when she goes. How about you add a 1" deep grip to it and create proper fades? It would be good to go if you did that and fixed that hinge.
Only when the last tree has died and the last river has been poisoned and the last fish has been caught will we realize we cannot eat money.

Offline H Rhodes

  • Member
  • Posts: 2,172
Re: Maple board
« Reply #9 on: September 24, 2013, 04:35:02 pm »
If it hasn't busted at that cut out arrow pass yet, you were lucky.   If you thin your tips that will help some, but the main thing is to get more of your limbs working.  It may drop your draw weight down, but I would rather have a well tillered 35lb bow than a 45lb bow on borrowed time.  If it were mine, I would work on getting the mid limbs working more and taking that hinge out.  If you do that, it might make a longer lasting, better shooting bow. 
Howard
Gautier, Mississippi

Offline The Gopher

  • Member
  • Posts: 522
  • Aim Small, Miss Small
Re: Maple board
« Reply #10 on: September 24, 2013, 04:59:21 pm »
Hope fully working the tips more will take stress off the riser... correct..?

not really, reworking the tips will reduce some stress at the handle but only because you will be losing some draw weight. Your arrow pass (handle area) is basically the fulcrum of your "flexible dual lever shooting machine". If you have two bows both of equal length, design and draw weight, but one has perfect tiller one had a poor tiller, i think the stress at the handle will be the same. Now having said that, there are extreme cases, a bow that has all bend through the handle is under more handle stress than a totally whip tillered bow. See now i'm talking in circles again  :-\
45# at 27"