Would this work for a molle?

[Bitterguy]

I'm ready to get started on bow number 2 and I was wondering if these dimensions would work for a molle. It's 67" ttt, 2" wide, 4" long 1" wide handle, 2"long fades going from the handle size back to the full 2", the bending part of the limb is 17.5" for each side (35" working limb total, about 50% of my bow ttt), 2" long fades from there into .5" levers that are about 9.25" long and i plan to make it go from about 3/4" (the board was origanlly 1"x6") down to .5" in the fades to the working sections of the bow. It's also a red oak board.

[randman]

Looks like you got a little more length on that board. If it were me I'd be using all of it (or at least a little more of it. That way you'll get a longer bending area that will take the extra stress a molly will put on them. Grain on the board doesn't look too bad. What does the end grain and side grain look like on that thing?

[Bitterguy]

Ill take a look ath the other grains tomorrow. That's the longest I can make it ttt without any runoff

[DavidV]

The levers don't bend, so you don't have to have PERFECT grain on them.

[Bitterguy]

So I could extend my bow so the working parts would end where the levers end now, stretching out the other lever too of course

[Ifrit617]

I'd go a full 72" t2t since its oak, other than that is leave as is.

Jon

[bubby]

I think 70" ttt is long enough, i'd make the fade end of the lever an inch wide and taper to 1/2" at the tips

[Bitterguy]

Wouldn't that look funky because the fades at the handle are 2" inches meaning I would need a taper

[SLIMBOB]

+1 bubby.   1" taper to .5" lever width.  Narrow from there to refine when your done.

[Bitterguy]

+1 bubby.   1" taper to .5" lever width.  Narrow from there to refine when your done.

Do you mean length (lever to working limb)? because otherwise I'd have to size down the working limb to 1" in order to have a 1" wide fade.

[SLIMBOB]

From whatever width your working limb is, (2 inches) the width should narrow to 1 inch wide at the start of the lever.  Your fade is 2 inches long, so it does the narrowing from 2 inches to one inch within that 2 inches.  Smooth transitions on all your shoulders.  No sharp angles.

Look up some of half eye's posts on his mollys.  very good descriptions with detail.

[Bitterguy]

I couldnt find his post because he only logs in as a guest so i can't see what topics he's started. But I think I understand what you're getting at. Start the lever at the fade at 1" and then taper down to .5" by the end of the lever correct?

[SLIMBOB]

Yes Sir.  I'm no Molly expert, but I've done one recently.  I used half eyes posts which you can pull up, he is a member.  Very beneficial info.  I also solicited Blackhawk's advise which was dead nut.  Mine was an Osage stave so different parameters as far as length and width, but the basics are the same.  I width tapered my working limbs by 1/4" from roughly 2" to 1 3/4" at the lever fade.  Now mine was only 62" long 50/50, so I had it start bending just past the handle fade.  At 70 inches, not sure if you need to width taper.  Depends on the side profile you seek, but I would consider it.  You want a good width taper on the levers.  Most of the leverage will be at the lever fade, so a bit wider there than the tip.

Check that, mine is 64" not 62".

[bubby]

http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,17521.0.html