Author Topic: Tip Overlays (Read 3908 times)

rossfactor · « **on:** September 10, 2012, 10:50:55 pm »

Any ';tips' for getting tip overlays to match up beautifully? Man, I usually do these by hand, with a flashlight and try to find micro-gaps by shining the light at the glue line, in a dark room. And I end up cussing and swearing and quiting, because I can't get that flat glue line. And I get it in the end, but its always a painful process for me. The belt sander always seems to leave a little bit of a rounded face.

Anyway. Anybody have the "secret" that makes for pain-free tip overlays?

Gabe

PeteC · « **Reply #1 on:** September 10, 2012, 10:56:26 pm »

If you're going to use a sander,the disc sander makes a clean,perfect joint. By hand,well it just takes a little practice,but it can surely be done. JMHO God bless

k-hat · « **Reply #2 on:** September 10, 2012, 11:00:21 pm »

I use a belt sander, but i leave the tips wider than they will finish, so any gap at the edge gets removed with the excess wood.

lostarrow · « **Reply #3 on:** September 11, 2012, 12:33:06 am »

File . Sand paper on the bench and rub the overlay on it. Use a little coarser sand paper with a stiff paper backing so it doesn't make a wave ahead of your piece and round things over. Make your overlays from a larger piece so it is easier to joint flat and then cut it in two after .Lots of practice? Sorry ,bud , thats all I can come up with.What are you using for overlays?

rossfactor · « **Reply #4 on:** September 11, 2012, 01:42:57 am »

Thanks for the suggestions y'all.

The Disc sander is a great idea. I fend the weight of the belt sander effects my steadiness, and if I clamp the snader and hold the bow, its also difficult to keep it perfectly still. But a disc sander is so much lighter, I bet I could keep more still.

A sanding block is another good idea.

Also leaving the overlays big. Cool, this will help. Like I said I usually get it, but it takes an inordinate amount of time and strife. Hopefully these ideas will help. I will report.

medicinewheel · « **Reply #5 on:** September 11, 2012, 04:46:37 am »

For some more info on tip pverlays go to:

http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,1729.0.html

DarkSoul · « **Reply #6 on:** September 11, 2012, 06:19:48 am »

I prefer the belt sander nowadays. If you use a course belt and medium pressure, you should get a nice and flat surface. Just hold the overlay and bow tip as motionless as you can; avoid applying varying amounts of pressure.
I have used hand tools successfully in the past, though. I used a course rasp to get close and then switched to a file. Clamp the bow tip firmly so it doesn't wobble. Once you get close with the file, use a lot of pressure and hold the file with both hands. Use short strokes and avoid cupping of the surface. The tip overlay can be done 'the other way around', by putting the file in a vise and dragging the overlay firmly over the surface. Leave the tip and overlay a bit wide (around 3/4" or so) so you will trim them later.

bubby · « **Reply #7 on:** September 11, 2012, 06:20:15 am »

i prep all mine on a ossillating belt sander, 36 grit, do most of the big removal with it as well

PEARL DRUMS · « **Reply #8 on:** September 11, 2012, 09:54:46 am »

I use all hand tools. I flatten the overlay out on 80 grit paper lying flat on my bench until the leading edge is sharp and kind of flexible. Then I use my scraper/rasp to flatten or anglew the back of the bow. I use the scrapers cutting edge to check for flatness, its the straightest edeg I have. I put overlays on 95% of my bows.

Pappy · « **Reply #9 on:** September 11, 2012, 10:14:44 am »

I do like Pearl,and put on with super glue,high grade. I never cut them in at an angle like I see a lot.I just flatten the back of the bow where the tip over lays will set flat. I can't make myself cut through the back and growth rings.

Some do and say they have never had trouble and I know its rare but ant worth the chance to me, just ask WillH.

Pappy

Pappy · « **Reply #10 on:** September 11, 2012, 10:28:22 am »

Here are a few pictures of some I done last week,leave some extra wood and I clamp in the middle and that will make for a nice tight fit.

These weren't quite finished as far as string nocks but you get the idea.

Pappy

Tom Leemans · « **Reply #11 on:** September 11, 2012, 11:03:39 am »

I get the mating surfaces as flat as I can, then use the surface of one as a sanding block to finish up the other and match up the mating surfaces. I knife edge the limb end of the overlay so it will easier to blend after glue up. A single edge razor blade makes a nice scraper to blend in before final sanding.

rossfactor · « **Reply #12 on:** September 11, 2012, 01:02:00 pm »

This has turned out into a real nice discussion. Its good to hear the varied ways that folks use for this. Got two overlays cut out for my latest project and I'm gonna give 'em a go tonight.

Gabe

Cameroo · « **Reply #13 on:** September 11, 2012, 01:52:18 pm »

I use a belt sander too. A couple tips that I was shown - get down to eye level with the belt sander. Mark lines on both sides of the bow to make sure you take the material off evenly. Choke up on the bow with whichever hand you are holding it with so that the weight of the bow sticking up makes the tip want to come off of the sander. Then you can use the other hand to apply pressure. All it takes is a light touch on the backside of the tip to take material off, and as soon as you release the pressure the weight of the bow will lift the tip up (imagine your holding hand is the fulcrum under a teeter-totter).

Check both sides often as you go and you shouldn't have any issues. Try this out on some scrap pieces to get a feel for it.

Primitive Archer