Tillering Tree Measuring Point-Mine's Done Now

[gudspelr]

I'm going to try and get a tillering tree built in the next day or two and had a quick question for you smart folks.  Can you correct me if I'm wrong here-draw length is measured from the back of the bow, not the belly, correct?

If this is the case, is the tillering tree made to compensate for the thickness of the handle section?  This makes me wonder since it seems most don't finish shaping the handle until the tillering is done.  Do you experienced guys always have the same finished depth (back to belly) in the handle area so it's consistent when tillering?  I would imagine otherwise, when the handle is thinned and shaped, the poundage will change along with potentially having overdrawn the bow during tillering?

I hope that all makes sense and thanks for your help.


Jeremy

[George Tsoukalas]

 I lay down a strip of duct tape for each bow and remark. Jawge

[gudspelr]

And......the voice of experience speaks...  I feel a bit like an idiot but glad I asked because that's got to be one of the best "simple" solutions I could have imagined.  Thanks, George.

Jeremy

[aclewis3]

I have a yard stick fastened with rubber bands that I adjust to each bow's back.

[Slackbunny]

I measure from the belly becuase it is convenient. I just take into account how thick my handle is when I am deciding how far down the tree to draw the bow, and I add that in for the final draw length figure. I figure none of this is an exact science anyway.

[Pappy]

I do the same as Slackbunny,really not that critical to me,close enough for who it is for ,as they say.  Most of my handles are close anyway and if not I just take that in to account.
   Pappy

[Badger]

  If your bow were being tested in a standard bow test it would be measured from the deepest part of the grip. For instance if you wanted your bow set at 28" you would neasure 26 1/4" from the deepest part of the grip. Most of us self bowyers measure from the back of the bow.

[mississippidave]

Jawge, that was profound!  I am always pleased when another elegant use for duct tape is mentioned....I will be using this method from now on fo sho!  Thanks!

[Del the cat]

I have a thin lath of wood with inches marked on it, two long slots allow it to be screwed to the wall and adjusted up and down for different size/styles of bow.
Del

[Buckeye Guy]

A home run hit in the park or outside the park is still a home run
close enough for me !!
Guy

[gudspelr]

Thanks to some great ideas from all of you, I managed to put together a tillering tree.  I wanted it adjustable, so figured I'd get a cheap wooden yard stick and scrounged up some other scrap wood.  I used a router on the edge of the 2x4 and originally planned to put some velcro on the back of the yard stick and the other half in the recess from the router so it was adjustable.  Problem was, I didn't end up making it deep enough (didn't have the yard stick picked up yet...).  Best part turned out to be that I don't need the velcro-there's just enough space to hold the yard stick nice and snug so I can slide it up and down.  Saw some other guys had a few holes here and there to stick a peg in if they wanted to, so I drilled some in the off chance I might use them.  Thanks again for helping out us newbies .












Jeremy

[lesken2011]

Nice job. Great idea about the yardstick. Beats measuring and writing the numbers with a sharpie!

[Del the cat]

Your setup, looks  great. I have one criticism tho'
I'd round off the support for the bow, that flat block will stop it moving naturally with the force of the draw.
I take care to support the bow where it will be supported by the hand, but leave it free to rock from side to side. Also try to draw the string from the right point.
Maybe it's just my foible. This pic shows what I mean (the bow is a miniature), also show the adjustable rule.

Del