show us your tools

[iowabow]

Can you show us your tools and and maybe include size i.e. 1 inch bopper etc..

[iowabow]

I am trying to make a new pressure flaking pad. I watched the video for beginners by paleomanjim and I like the idea of a pad with a metal back on it. He said that it helped to keep the pad from flexing. I found 2 foot of that rubber pad material that looks like a conveyor belt. I plan on jb welding the rubber pad to the plate. I just don't know how thick or high the pad should be? The material I have is  3/8

[leapingbare]

I only use a slotted rubber pad when i am thinning the base of a point like a lostlake, calf creek, or pinetree. Or when i really need a long deep pressure flack to remove some junk. The rest of my pressure flaking is done with a leather pad with no slots. I Think your maintain a better cross section when pressure flaking with a leather pad, But the slotted rubber pads have there uses too.
 When i use the slotted rubber i just place it on top of my leather hand pad. Never tried a piece of metal, never had a need for it.

[iowabow]

OK great info thank you. I have a lot of this so I can make a solid one also so I can see the effect.

[mullet]

 I have a slotted rubber piece on a piece of wood. I only use it when I'm pressure flakeing slabs and want the flakes to run and stop in the center.

[iowabow]

I have a slotted rubber piece on a piece of wood. I only use it when I'm pressure flakeing slabs and want the flakes to run and stop in the center.

So when you are working on a point you use a leather pad on you hand like leapingbear. I seem to apply a lot of pressure before the point releases and put the copper in my hand.  You can see it in the photo above just at the edge of the plate as the palm starts. How thick is the pad in your hand?

[iowabow]

I only use a slotted rubber pad when i am thinning the base of a point like a lostlake, calf creek, or pinetree. Or when i really need a long deep pressure flack to remove some junk. The rest of my pressure flaking is done with a leather pad with no slots. I Think your maintain a better cross section when pressure flaking with a leather pad, But the slotted rubber pads have there uses too.
 When i use the slotted rubber i just place it on top of my leather hand pad. Never tried a piece of metal, never had a need for it.

I'm going to work the points this weekend in this way.. sounds good. thank you

[leapingbare]

Remember to use your legs to pop off the flakes. Press the copper tip on the platform with your upper body and pop off the flake with the legs.

[iowabow]

With the ishi stick or the short handle also. I read that the copper should be shaped like a pencil but  rounded on the tip is that what you prefer?

[leapingbare]

Thats with both ishi and short handled pressure flaker's.
How ever i sometimes don't use my legs when using the short handled ones.
 I pound mine with a hammer to make a pyramid tip. if its to sharp it will bend.

[cowboy]

Here's an old picture i took of my boppers and ishi's. Copper is anywhere from around 1 1/2" to 1/2". You can see my rubber hand pad there, i jb welded metal plate to the back of it for the same reason. I did swedge out some copper caps and made that kind of boppers once but they didn't last very long hitting this perd i have here. These solid copper one's will most likely last a lifetime..

[iowabow]

that larger copper bopper looks cool. With the price of copper today that would cost a little.

[cowboy]

They are a bit pricey, you have to buy em by the pound. I lucked out and found these at a metal mart in El Paso. they were remnants. You might try scrap yards for big buss bars and stuff like that.

[iowabow]

OK good call

[iowabow]

I have a very cool neighbor and he made this today for my birthday.