Mullberry recurve need some input

[tetaxidermy]

Here is what I have so far, shooting for at least 55 pounds at 28''. It is a mullberry stave, 1 5/8'' at fades 1 1/4'' at mid limb tapers to 1/2'' at tips 66'' long. Hoping for a good hunting bow. Now for some questions can I narrow some from the fades out and through the handle, I want to make it bend through the handle some, not sure how thick to make handle area, limbs are 9/16'' right now can't hardly bend them yet, tell me what you guys think, thanks.

[Josh]

I wouldn't make it bend through the handle since you've already narrowed it... I would just tiller it with a stiff handle and get it bending right up into the fades.    Good luck it's gonna be a good-un!      

[aznboi3644]

nice crappie

[Pat B]

Make the handle the same thickness as the limbs are now. For a bendy handle you want it to bend only at full draw. You want to just feel it bend when you hit anchor. Start working the limbs as you would a straight limb bow and get them bending. As you near full draw you can concentrate more on the handle area to get it to bend...but only if everything else is where it should be.
  For me, your recurves are too big. This is taking away from the working portion of the limbs putting them under more stress. At 66" you could remove 1 1/2" from each tip, decreasing the size of the recurve and still have plenty of wood for your 28" draw and 55# should be no problem. Getting the working portion bending from the recurves and through the handle should make a fine bow. Be careful near the curves because the leverage of the recurves put a lot of stress right where the static tips "fade" into the limbs, just like at a rigid handle.
  Leave the tips and recurves(non working portion) the same width for now and keep them thick. Later, after your first stringing you will see how the string tracks and can make width adjustments as needed. Also, once you do your first stringing you will probably have to adjust the alignment of the recurves with heat. Maybe even a few times to get it just right. When it is time for the final finish work you can reduce the width of the tips and shape them as you want. You should be able to reduce the thickness some too. All of this will reduce the physical tip weight which will increase the performance of the recurve and decrease hand shock.

[tetaxidermy]

aznboi3644, thanks it is a customers fish, still has to be finished, three more to go before deer season, and one deer too finish too, but while they are drying got to work on my new hunting bow
Pat B, thanks for the info I wondered about the recurves, still learning, will work on it some more, and post pics. I have had 2 flops in a row, want to make sure this one is right, hunting is coming Oct. 1st, Illinois archery season.

[Pat B]

Did you have plans for the back of the bow, ie. skins, dye job, as is?  I would add a rawhide(preferred), silk or linen backing just for insurance. It can be removed later if you wanted or snake skins can be glued over that backing or a design painted on it.
  Your limbs are going to be highly stressed while you tiller. Take it slow and exercise often and well between wood removals. Once you get her bending, get everything bending evenly and together early so you can concentrate on making weight and a little more when the tillering is done. After rounding your edges and sanding out the tool marks you should hit your mark.
  Mulberry bows generally come out thicker than the same weight and size osage so don't let the thickness fool you. It is a physically lighter in weight than osage so it can compete with osage in shootability.

[tetaxidermy]

I do have linen and carp skins thought about them.

[walkabout]

i agree with pat, work out the main portions of the limbs before you thin the tips and get the handle bending. its rough trying to hit draw weight and scrape off stiff spots at the same time, best to catch them early. since the handle is already thinned it should really only flex slightly as pat said. my current bow im working on is 66" as well and draws to 50#@24, around 60#28"(scale only goes up to 50#). id also probably agree the recurves could be smaller, and static is in my opinion one of the best ways to go. no need to worry about tillering them out, and it will help keep the string at a good angle. i cant really tell how thick they are but im betting you have a decent amount to work with once you get the string aligned right.

[JW_Halverson]

Too bad you couldn't get a little more recurve on those tips!     Sorry, that was a little sarcastic. 

Holy cheez, how did you do that?  Can't wait to see some pics of that thing strung and pulled to full draw.  Go, man, go!