splicing

[walkabout]

just wondering if there is an easier way to join billets than a fishtail or z splice for those of us who cant get a good fit, perhaps maybe an elongated scarf joint?of course im guessing that it would have to be reinforced somehow, but right now i dont have any gap filling epoxies.

[sonny]

sounds like you've already cut the joint ??

if so you can always steam the joint for 15 minutes or so, quickly assemble it (no glue) and clamp 'til cool.
this'll make each half of the joint conform to the other.
hope this helps......
 

[walkabout]

ive cut a few and not been happy with the results, but luckily i have enough wood left over to still use if i can get the joints to my liking. the problem really is with my bandsaw, ive tuned it but it still wanders a bit and i have to really drive it to get a good straight cut. i think i have single fishtail splices down pretty good, and might try one of those but would like to be able to get a good double fishtail or z splice.

[M-P]

Hi,  Practice helps a lot.  Z splices are pretty forgiving.  As sonny said steam heating the splice section and mashing together with clamps will make all but the sloppiest joint reasonable.  A good gap filling glue will make up for some slop too.  I use a strong ( not 5 minute) epoxy and a wood dust filler.  The results aren't always pretty but the splice will normally be covered with a handle wrap.   Ron

[Pat B]

I've only had to use splices a few times and none of them were very pretty!  ...but none failed.   The "Z" splice is the easiest for me to cut and get a good mating. If you can clamp the billets in a piggy back and saw both halves together you will get a better fit. As said about steaming or boiling the two halves and clamping until dry will also give you a better mated joint. There should be a "build along" showing how to cut and join splices so do a search. Urac is the best wood/wood glue and has very good gap filling properties and would probably your best option. I have used TBIII with good results but had to fill the gaps after the splice was shaped into a handle. If you are still not confident in your splice, wrap the handle temporarily with strong cord while tillering then when done, remove the old wrap and use hemp cord set in Massey finish as your final handle wrap. I began using this handle wrap method after having a handle riser pop off as the bow bent through the handle. It makes a very strong binder as well as a good handler wrap.
(this method won't prevent a riser from popping off of a bendy handle unless you allow the limbs to bend right up to a very short handle riser and not try to let the riser bend.)

[walkabout]

thanks for the replies. i havent yet tried boiling or steaming, but might after i can get consistent cuts. as for practice ive been using just about every scrap i have that is too small to use in a bow or something else but big enough to cut splices in. ive found that as long as i cut slowly i can get pretty good splices, and if the splices are decent i have a few ideas for reinforcing them, such as with rawhide and/or hemp cord wraps. i have some hickory bark too that i thought make a decent overlay for the splice as insurance.

[Pat B]

You will also have to make your handle area close to the final shape before making your splice or you will remove most of the splice shaping the handle.

[Bowmonk]

Curious how wide your band-saw blades are... wider thicker blades make life so much easier on precision cuts.