Author Topic: Plains or Pyrimid?  (Read 2175 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline hillbilly61

  • Member
  • Posts: 893
  • Fly straight and true
Plains or Pyrimid?
« on: May 25, 2010, 09:11:35 am »
I have 2 IPE boards to work with. Both will be boo backed. One I want to try putting some reflex in. What style works best with the IPE? I would like to try and get one done by the Hill shoot and bring the other + a Osage board , backed with boo the last 2 glued up, but unworked. Any suggestions?
I will say of the Lord,"He is my refuge and my fortress;
  My God, in Him I will trust."  Psalm 91:2

half eye

  • Guest
Re: Plains or Pyrimid?
« Reply #1 on: May 25, 2010, 09:22:08 am »
Hey Bud,
      Just sort of went through that with Ipe. I know that you are going to want a narrow profile. I blew the backing right to pieces by trying to make the first one wide limbed. Finally came up with a sort of modified prymid design....which was about 1 to 1-1/8" wide at the fades and narrowed to 3/8" at the tips in a straight like. The bows are really fast, no set, and most important the Ipe cant overpower the backer. The grips on these bows are 7/8" wide and only 1-1/4 deep and I let the limbs bend into the handle fades (but through the grip). Worked for me.
      Dont know about bamboo as I never used it but I believe Ipe likes to be a little thicker and narrower as opposed to wide and thin.
Rich

Offline bubby

  • Member
  • Posts: 11,054
Re: Plains or Pyrimid?
« Reply #2 on: May 27, 2010, 02:13:02 am »
Rich is right, my boo backed epe is just under 11/4" wide, 62 1/2" ntn, 65# @ 29" draw. the epe is 3/8" thick at the fades down to 1/4 with glued on recurved tips thin,light and shoots hard bendy handle, simple design, great bow
failure is an option, everyone fails, it's how you handle it that matters.
The few the proud the 27🏹

Offline Parnell

  • Member
  • Posts: 5,556
Re: Plains or Pyrimid?
« Reply #3 on: May 27, 2010, 03:28:07 pm »
I've made several maple or hickory backed Ipe D bows ranging from 62 inches to 70 inches.  All are supremely good shooters.  Quick to tiller also - I can put one out in about 8 hours of work, at this point.  Bubby's dimensions are about where I go with mine.  I like to trap the back of the bow with ipe - D cross section, that is.  Good luck with that!
1’—>1’

Offline hillbilly61

  • Member
  • Posts: 893
  • Fly straight and true
Re: Plains or Pyrimid?
« Reply #4 on: May 27, 2010, 07:26:10 pm »
 Thanks guys. Just like the first Osage, they have me spooked :-[ Don't know why. I guess I just don't want to mess these up. One I have roughed down to 1 1/4 at the fadedown to 3/8 at the tips. No backing yet, as I want to floor tiller and try to put a little reflex in it. This will be a first also. The other I have cut to 1" at the handle down to 3/8" at the tips and it's backed with boo. Ive made the handle area 6" in length, which can be changed if need be. Maybe I should just wait and take them to the Hill shoot and get some expert advise :-\ Or should I just go for it and learn from the mistakes?
I will say of the Lord,"He is my refuge and my fortress;
  My God, in Him I will trust."  Psalm 91:2

Offline bubby

  • Member
  • Posts: 11,054
Re: Plains or Pyrimid?
« Reply #5 on: May 28, 2010, 12:33:28 am »
as long as you wipe it down good with acetone andget a good glue up I'd go for it. I jst built a hickory backed D bow and a sliver started to lift, added some gunnie sack and it's shooting great. all wood acts diferent, and you're hands got to gain that know how. just go for it
failure is an option, everyone fails, it's how you handle it that matters.
The few the proud the 27🏹